
Youโve probably seen the videos. A fish with a transparent head, its organs floating inside like tennis balls. Squid drifting through the darkness with enormous, googly eyes and arms trailing behind them like ribbons. These strange animals are just a glimpse of what scientists are beginning to learn about the deep ocean off California. Much of that discovery is happening at one of the most remarkable ocean research institutions in the world, the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute.
The California coastline is about 840 miles long, pretty huge. That means lots of ocean at our doorstep. Most of us know the beaches, the cliffs, the kelp forests close to shore, the places where water crashes on the sand. But once you head offshore, knowledge thins out fast. Just a mile from the coast, we know so little.
Californiaโs state waters extend three nautical miles from the coast, after which federal waters take over, and the United Statesโ exclusive economic zone (EEZ) stretches all the way out to 200 nautical miles. That is an enormous expanse of ocean, larger than the land area of the state itself.
And hereโs the thing: Much of it remains barely explored, especially at depth, where light disappears, pressure is crushing, and the ocean floor drops into canyons almost as deep as the Grand Canyon. Just to put things into perspective: the maximum depth for a scuba diver is about 60-100 feet. The average depth of the ocean is around 12,000 feet.

California, then, not surprisingly, is home to some of the worldโs most important ocean science institutions. Scripps Institution of Oceanography in San Diego has shaped modern oceanography for more than a century, from plate tectonics to climate science. Weโve done several stories on Scripps and some of the key figures there. Stanfordโs Hopkins Marine Station has been a center of marine biology since the nineteenth century. There are others too, from university labs to federal research centers, each with its own focus and institutional agenda.
But one organization stands apart, not because it replaces these institutions, but because it operates under a fundamentally different model. That institution is the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute, better known as MBARI.
Iโve been to the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute many times to film stories both about and for them, and it always blows me away. Itโs less like a stodgy research campus and more like a playground for ocean exploration. Thereโs a massive testing tank where engineers trial the robots and instruments destined for the deep, and sprawling, well-equipped labs that could be featured in science fiction films.

The people are exceptionally smart, deeply focused, and totally serious about the work. MBARI is one of the few places on the California coast where you can actually see the future of ocean exploration being built.
Thatโs why Iโm writing this. I want you to understand how remarkable MBARI is, and how vast, fragile, and important Californiaโs offshore ecosystem really is.
While closely linked, the Monterey Bay Aquarium (est. 1984) and the Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute (est. 1987) are distinct entities. The Aquarium serves as a public gateway for education and conservation, while MBARI operates as an independent, offshore science and engineering hub. If you are in Monterey, the Aquarium is a must-see destination for world-class exhibits.
So, MBARI
Interestingly, MBARI is not affiliated with a California university. That independence frees it from the layers of academic bureaucracy that often shape university-based research. MBARI can move faster, take longer-term bets, and organize its work around problems and tools rather than semesters, committees, or funding cycles. Also, MBARI is intentionally engineering-driven. It brings engineers and scientists together to build tools that work in the ocean, solving practical problems and opening up parts of the deep sea that were previously out of reach, including the places abundant with bizarre life.

MBARI was founded in 1987 by David Packard, the cofounder of Hewlett-Packard, and from the start it was designed to solve a problem Packard thought was holding ocean science back. Too often, scientists depended on tools they didnโt control, ships they couldnโt easily schedule, and technologies that required specific expertise. MBARI brought scientists, engineers, and marine operations together inside a single institution, with a mandate not just to do science, but to invent the tools needed to do better science. Packard himself was a gruff, no-nonsense engineer who had a deep passion for the ocean, and he formed MBARI with clear goals in mind, focused on designing and building machines to do ocean work. Why? Because the ocean is a remarkably difficult place to get things done.

I wonโt get into the weeds here, but one thing that makes MBARI unusual is how itโs funded. MBARI is largely supported by the David and Lucile Packard Foundation. Most oceanographic institutions depend heavily on competitive federal grants to keep their core programs operational. MBARI still receives those grants, but its base budget comes from philanthropy. That difference means MBARI can think in decades instead of grant cycles. The institute can develop long-term observing programs and keep improving as technology advances.
Because of all this, they have to some extent escaped some of the harsh funding pressures under the Trump Administration that have negatively impacted other oceanographic institutions in the US, particularly at agencies like NOAA and the National Science Foundation. Many university labs and federal programs faced delays, uncertainty, or serious reductions. MBARI, while not totally immune to these disruptions, was able to weather our current period better than most.

A vampire squid (Vampyroteuthis infernalis) observed by MBARI’s remotely operated vehicle (ROV) Tiburon in the outer Monterey Canyon at a depth of approximately 770 meters. (Credit: ยฉ 2004 MBARI)
Perhaps the most important thing about MBARI is its geography. The institute was intentionally located in Moss Landing, right where Monterey Canyon, one of the largest submarine canyons in the world (hereโs a vid I did for SciAm), slices deeply into the continental shelf and comes ashore. Within a few miles of the harbor, the seafloor drops to depths of more than two miles, creating an incredible natural laboratory. By placing MBARI at the canyonโs edge, deep-sea exploration became routine rather than occasional, with one of the earthโs most interesting and poorly understood features right on their doorstep.
Monterey Canyon is MBARIโs proving ground. For decades, MBARIโs remotely operated vehicles and autonomous systems have constantly descended into the canyon, mapping its walls, sampling its sediments, and documenting the life that thrives in the depths. Because the canyon is so accessible, MBARI has been able to return to the same sites again and again, building one of the most detailed, long-term records of a submarine canyon anywhere in the world. They also recently got a new research ship called the David Packard.

Several legendary scientists have called MBARI home, helping us better understand what is really happening in the ocean. One of them is Bruce Robison, whom I interviewed a few years ago about a remarkable semi-autonomous system called MESOBOT, developed by MBARI and the Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution.
MESOBOT can quietly hover in the water column during the nightly movement known as Diel Vertical Migration, the largest animal migration on Earth (I wrote about it). By drifting with a vast upward and downward movement of life, the robot can capture images and behaviors that were previously impossible to document over long periods of time.
“Not only will we be able to address the questions that we have imagined beforehand,” said Robison. “But once we realize what this vehicle will do for us, there will be all sorts of new questions, new discoveries that sort of fall in your lap, in addition to what you set out to do in the first place.”

MBARIโs greatness stems from the complicated tools it has built. Its remotely operated vehicles, including the deep-diving Doc Ricketts (Steinbeckโs scientific muse), have transformed how scientists observe and sample sealife thousands of meters below the surface. These are workhorse platforms capable of precise, repeatable science, from collecting fragile jellyfish to mapping hydrothermal vents.
MBARI has also been a pioneer in autonomous underwater vehicles, including the Long-Range AUV (LRAUV. These robotic submarines can stay at sea for weeks or even months, sometimes traveling more than a thousand kilometers while carrying chemical, biological, and acoustic sensors. They’re roaming laboratories, quietly sampling the water column across broad stretches of ocean without the constant need for a support ship overhead.
Also important are MBARIโs observing systems. The institute operates cabled seafloor observatories like the MARS that monitor the deep sea in real time. Thereโs also Station M, MBARIโs long-term deep-sea laboratory off the coast of Santa Barbara. It operates at a depth of 4000m (around 13,000 feet) where decades of continuous measurements and observations track carbon sequestration in the deep ocean.

And there are many more projects at MBARI that help us better understand whatโs going on in the ocean at a time when itโs critical to know how the ocean and the climate interact. Covering them all would take tens of thousands of words. One great source for what MBARI does is itโs exceptional annual report, which is filled with easy to digest facts, figures, articles as well as stunning images that give an update on the institutionโs work.
Yes, the imagery. I mean, wow. Over decades of work, theyโve built an incredible visual record of life just offshore. Odd creatures shaped by crushing pressure and darkness that could be in a James Cameron film. MBARIโs social media group does excellent work showcasing some of these animals. For example, they just recently released this video of a baby glass squid.

One final project worth mentioning is the AI-driven FathomNet, developed by the scientist-engineer Kakani Katija. Built to tackle the flood of imagery coming off MBARIโs deep-sea dives, some of it decades old, FathomNet uses deep-learning computer-vision algorithms to help automatically identify, label, and catalog animals. The project is turning thousands of hours of video into usable biological data that helps us better understand both the diversity and quantity of life in the ocean.
โWeโre sitting on a lot of data. But we havenโt created a mechanism to share it or review it across the community,โ Kakani told me. โFathomNet is really about creating the data backbone that will enable discovery across the entire ocean.โ

MBARIโs wasnโt built to replace universities or federal agencies. University scientists frequently collaborate with MBARI. They use its platforms and give students real in situ experience. At a moment when public funding for climate and ocean science has taken gnarly hits, Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Instituteโs philanthropic model has quietly kept the ships going to sea and the robots going down.
Californiaโs future is connected to the ocean. Climate change, fisheries, sea level rise, and compromised ecosystems are all things the organization deals with. My guess is that few people are even aware the MBARI exists, let alone the important work it does that helps all of us. In the deep, dark places offshore, where maps are still incomplete and life thrives, MBARI has quietly become one of the most important windows we have into the largest part of the state we almost never see.











































