A lobate ctenophore in the ocean twilight zone. (Photo: NOAA)
If you’ve been reading this newsletter for a while, you already know I’m obsessed with submarines and undersea life. I believe we’re at the beginning of a new era of ocean discovery, driven by small personal submersibles, remotely operated vehicles (ROVS), and autonomous explorers (AUVs) that can roam the deep on their own. Add AI into the mix, and our ability to see, map, and understand the ocean is about to expand dramatically.
One phenomenon we are only beginning to fully understand also happens to be one of the most extraordinary animal events on Earth. It unfolds every single night, just a few miles offshore, in a region known as the ocean twilight zone about 650 to 3,300 feet below the ocean surface. Twice a day, billions of tons of marine organisms, from tiny crustaceans to massive schools of squid, traverse the water column in what researchers call the Diel Vertical Migration (DVM), the largest mass migration of animals on Earth. A heaving, planetary-scale pulse of biomass rising and falling through the dark.
It happens everywhere, in every ocean. But California is special for several reasons. California’s cold, southward-flowing current and seasonal upwelling flood coastal waters with nutrients that feed dense plankton blooms. These blooms provide food for thick layers of migrating animals. California has one of the most robust and productive ocean ecosystems on the planet. (Take a read of the piece I did about life on some of our oil rigs.) When you add Monterey Canyon into the mix, which funnels and concentrates life, this global phenomenon becomes more compressed and visible. In fact, with Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute (MBARI) based at Moss Landing near the head of the canyon, Monterey Bay has become one of the most intensively studied midwater ecosystems on the planet.
Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute (MBARI) in Moss Landing, perched at the edge of Monterey Canyon, one of the deepest submarine canyons in North America. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
This “tidal cycle of shifting biomass” is not driven by gravity, but by the rising and setting sun. Animals rise by the trillions during the evening to escape predation, then settle during the day, when light would otherwise make them visible to hungry predators.
The discovery of this phenomenon reads like a Tom Clancy novel and took place just off our coast. During World War II, U.S. Navy sonar operators working off San Diego and the Southern California Bight began detecting what looked like a “false seafloor” hovering 300 to 500 meters down during the day, only to sink or vanish each night. The mystery lingered for years, until the late 1940s, when scientist Martin Johnson and others at Scripps Institution of Oceanography showed that the phantom bottom was not seafloor, but vast layers of living animals rising and falling with the sun. We now know this as the Deep Scattering Layer (DSL), so named because the gas-filled swim bladders of millions of small fish, primarily lanternfish which number into the quadrillions around the globe, reflect sonar pings like a solid wall.
The deep-scattering layer (DSL) graphed as an echogram, or a plot of active acoustic data. Warmer colors indicate more backscatter, meaning that more (or stronger) echoes were received back from the organisms at that depth. The red line indicates the remotely operated vehicle (ROV) trajectory as it performs transects throughout the layer. (Source: NOAA)
So let’s talk about those amazing lanternfish, aka myctophids, a species that many peole have likely never heard of. These small fish may make up as much as 65 percent of all deep-sea fish biomass and are a major food source for whales, dolphins, salmon, and squid. They use tiny light organs called photophores to match faint surface light, a camouflage strategy known as counterillumination that helps hide them from predators below. These are just one of the many different species that inhabit the twilight zone as part of the DVM.
A lanternfish photographed in the ocean twilight zone, its body dotted with tiny light organs called photophores that help it blend into faint surface light as it migrates toward the surface at night. (Photo: NOAA)
Monterey Bay is arguably the world’s most important laboratory for DVM research, thanks to the Monterey Canyon, and several ground-breaking discoveries have come out of MBARI. For example, scientists at MBARI, including the legendary Bruce Robison, have used ROVs to document what they call “running the gauntlet,” when these migrators pass through layers of hungry, waiting predators. They encounter giant siphonophores with stinging tentacles, squids snag lanternfish, and giant larvaceans that build sprawling mucus “houses” that trap smaller animals. It’s like an epic battle scene out of Lord of the Rings, every single day.
This migration is also a key part of the ocean’s carbon cycle, which includes a scientific process known as the biological pump. When larger animals eat carbon-rich plankton at the surface, they eventually defecate all that carbon into the water, aka the “active transport” mechanism. Much of that carbon sinks to the bottom, sequestering it for decades or even centuries. In some regions, DVM accounts for one-third of the total carbon transport to the deep ocean. MBARI has a very interesting, long-term deep-ocean observatory called the Station M research site and observatory located nearly 12,000 feet below the surface off Santa Barbara. This site has been continuously monitored for more than three decades to track how organic matter produced near the surface eventually reaches the abyssal seafloor and feeds deep communities. I did a video about it for MBARI a few years ago.
Deployment of Mesobot, an autonomous midwater robot developed by Monterey Bay Aquarium Research Institute and Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, for exploration of the ocean twilight zone above Monterey Canyon, California. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Other cutting-edge technology is being brought to bear as well to help us better understand what life exists in the deep waters off California. A UC San Diego study shows that we can now use low-volume environmental DNA (eDNA) to detect the genetic signatures of huge numbers of different animals, even if we can’t see them. This free-floating DNA moves with ocean currents and can be sequenced to identify species ranging from copepods to dolphins, allowing researchers to track who is participating in the migration even when organisms are too small, fragile, or fast for traditional nets.
All of this plays out each day and night off our coast, a vast symphony of animal movement and deadly combat that, until recently, was not only poorly understood but largely invisible to science. And it’s all happening right off our shores
Eadweard Muybridge’s ‘Animal Locomotion’ was the first scientific study to use photography. Now, more than 130 years later, Muybridge’s work is seen as both an innovation in photography and the science of movement.
I love digging into California’s technological past. Long before Silicon Valley became the engine we think of today, the state was already a proving ground for industrial innovation. Oil, agriculture, mining, and, perhaps not surprisingly, but significantly for us here, cinema. But I’m not talking about the 1930s or 1950s, not even the 20th century. The technological roots of the movie industry in California go back much further, to a dusty track in Palo Alto.
It was the summer of 1878, and a horse was caught doing something humans had argued over for centuries. For a fraction of a second, all four of its hooves left the ground at once. Not in the way painters had long imagined, legs flung forward and back in an airborne sprawl, but gathered neatly beneath the body. That brief, invisible instant, preserved by a camera, helped give birth to cinema and changed how scientists would come to understand motion in living things.
Let me explain.
This is how painters used to depict horses at full gallop, with legs spread out above the ground. Derby at Epsom by Théodore Géricault, 1821, oil on canvas, 92 x 116 cm (Musée du Louvre)
The horse was a Thoroughbred mare named Sallie Gardner. The man who wanted the answer was Leland Stanford, a railroad magnate and former California governor. He would, of course, go on to lend his name to one of the great educational institutions in history. But before that, Stanford was fixated on a practical problem. As a serious horse breeder, racer, and betting guy, he wanted to know whether a galloping horse ever had all four hooves off the ground at once. It was a question with real implications for training, speed, injury, and breeding at a time when elite horse racing was big business.
Artists had painted images of horses at full gallop for centuries, and they often had the horse fully splayed out above the ground. You’ve probably seen those paintings in wealthy people’s homes or at your local country club. Or maybe not. Anyway, it turns out that the gallop is too fast, and beyond the capabilities of human. Stanford wanted the answer, and Muybridge accepted his offer to find out using pioneering new technology.
Eadweard Muybridge, The Horse in Motion (“Sallie Gardner,” 1878. (Source: Library of Congress, Washington, D.C.)
Muybridge had been into cameras for a long time. He first drew attention in 1868 for his large historical photographs of Yosemite Valley, California, well before Ansel Adams, who did not begin photographing Yosemite seriously until the 1920s.
In the case of horse motion, Muybridge’s solution was not a single camera; it was more of an elaborate system. At Stanford’s Palo Alto Stock Farm, which would become Stanford University, he set up a line of cameras along a track, each one triggered by a trip wire as Sallie Gardner ran past. The result was not a blur, but a sequence of sharp, discrete instants, time broken into measurable slices. Muybridge’s images revealed something unexpected: The horse does leave the ground, but not when its legs are fully stretched. The airborne moment comes when the legs are tucked beneath the body, a moment that the human eye hadn’t seen before.
What Muybridge actually demonstrated was that motion itself could be turned into evidence. The camera was no longer just a tool for portraits or landscapes. It became a machine for understanding reality.
Muybridge in 1899 (Wikipedia)
I guess you could say in a way that Sallie Gardner really was something like the world’s first movie star, though they didn’t call it that. The photographs did show motion on screen, per se, but they allowed you to see movement in stages. Within a year, Muybridge developed the zoopraxiscope, a projection device that animated sequences of motion using images painted or printed on rotating glass discs, often derived from his photographs.
It wasn’t a modern movie projector, and it didn’t project photographic film in the way later cinema would. But it was among the first devices to project moving images to public audiences, establishing the visual logic that cinema would later put to use. It is believed that the device was one of the primary inspirations for Thomas Edison and William Kennedy Dickson‘s Kinetoscope, the first commercial film exhibition system.
So, key to the effort was not only that Muybridge kind of overturned centuries of artistic convention, but he also, in a way, laid out the basic grammar of cinema: break time into frames, control the shutter, sequence the images, then reassemble them into motion. Hollywood would later industrialize all of this in Southern California, though the first experiment took place in Northern California.
Muybridge’s technological advances mattered as much as his images (he would go on to do many other animals including humans). He pushed shutter speeds and synchronized multiple cameras. These were a few of the problems early filmmakers confronted decades later. Long before movie studios, California was already solving the physics of film.
There was also a scientific payoff. Muybridge’s sequences transformed the study of animal locomotion. For the first time, biologists and physiologists could see how bodies actually moved, not how they appeared to move. A gait could be compared with another, giving insight into biomechanics.
Scientists, particularly those in Europe took notice. Physiologists such as Étienne-Jules Marey built on Muybridge’s work, dropping poor cats upside down and making motion photography into a formal tool for studying living systems. It was a way for biology to see life in a new way.
Of course, today, moving imagery is essential to understanding how bodies move because motion is often too fast and complex for the naked eye. High-speed video and motion capture are used to analyze animal locomotion, study human gait and injury, improve athletic performance, and reveal behaviors in wildlife that would otherwise be invisible. Several institutions in California have been harnessing this power for years. Caltech researchers use high-speed video to fundamentally revise how scientists understand insect flight. Stanford’s Neuromuscular Biomechanics Lab identifies abnormal walking patterns in children, helping, for example, kids with cerebral palsy. At Scripps Institution of Oceanography, scientists found that fish use nearly twice as much energy hovering as they do resting, contradicting previous assumptions.
Hollywood would later perfect illusion, narrative, glamour, let alone bring digital technology to bear to give us aliens and dinosaurs, but it started in Palo Alto with a horse named Sallie Gardner, and yes, a rich guy and a curious, talented inventor. Muybridge went on to produce over 100,000 images of animals and humans in motion between 1884 and 1886.
There is a plaque that marks the site of Muybridge’s experiments. It’s California Historical Landmark No. 834, located at Stanford University on Campus Drive West, near the golf driving range. You might walk past it without knowing. But you could argue that this is one of those nondescript places where movie-making began. And of course, it happened here in California.
I have a deep passion for octopuses. I have made several short documentaries about them and even traveled twice to Indonesia with one of the world’s leading octopus scientists to film them in their natural habitat. My home office is packed with octopus imagery and iconography, and years ago I made a personal vow never to eat octopus. Squid and other mollusks still get a pass in my book. If you want to debate the ethics of this, fine.
The octopus is a singularly unique creature in the animal kingdom. They are essentially related to clams and abalone and snails, yet they possess an intelligence (let alone a body form) that is so strange and alien, it is unsurprising that sci-fi movies like Arrival feature creatures that are both very intelligent and octopus-like. If you have ever spent an hour alone on the seafloor with an octopus (as I have….just looking eye to eye), you know that they are something different. While most other fish swim away, an octopus will often linger and even engage in what might be considered play.
In fact, we’ve learned that octopuses rely heavily on learning rather than instinct. Unlike many animals that follow hardwired behavioral scripts, octopuses explore, test, and improvise. For that reason and others, it’s hard not to think of them more like other familiar mammals, like a dog or a dolphin.
And then you consider evolution and it gets really weird.
The common octopus (Octopus vulgaris) in Indonesia. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
That’s the thing. When we talk about smart animals, we tend to think of vertebrates: dolphins, whales, dogs, horses, elephants. They all share a long evolutionary lineage with us, shaped by natural selection into social, communicative, problem-solving creatures whose minds we recognize because they work in ways familiar to our own. But octopuses are not like that. They diverged from our lineage hundreds of millions of years ago. The last common ancestor humans share with an octopus was a simple wormlike creature. From that fork in the tree of life, vertebrates developed one path toward cognition while invertebrates followed others, some of them evolving remarkable abilities (spiders anyone?!), but rarely what we traditionally call intelligence.
Somehow, the octopus broke that pattern. It built a mind through a completely different architecture, with neurons spread throughout its arms, distributed processing, and behaviors that suggest curiosity, play, memory, strategy. They’ve developed these complex behaviors because they are essentially large blobs of protein moving about the seafloor. When exposed, they are very vulnerable, and so millions of years of evolutionary pressure have compelled them to become, well, smart. What makes this even stranger is how short their lives are…usually just a year or two. All of that intelligence compressed into what, in the grand scheme of things, is just a brief flash of existence.
Seeing eye to eye with an octopus in Indonesia (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Alongside them, their closest cousins, the cuttlefish, have evolved similarly striking cognitive abilities, but they don’t quite equate with the octopus. Still, together they show that intelligence is not a single climb up one evolutionary ladder but something nature can shape in entirely different ways. Convergent evolution.
So, if you were searching for meaning and purpose and trying to understand the process of intelligence itself, you could hardly find a better creature to study than the octopus. Short of discovering another intelligent life form somewhere in the universe, the octopus is one of our best bets to grasp what intelligence is and how it evolves.
Scientists are doing precisely that right now. And there is one species they turn to the most: our own California two-spot octopus (Octopus bimaculoides), one of the most remarkable animals on the planet. (They get their name, obviously, from the attractive blue spots on their sides.) The California two-spot octopus spends its days tucked into small crevices and hunting right off our shores. You can see them up and down the coast. I have only encountered a few in the wild, but each time it’s special, like a Christmas gift.
California two-spot octopus in a lab (Photo: Erik Olsen)
What’s especially cool is that the California two-spot octopus has gone from a coastal curiosity — an animal long seen, admired, and loved by divers — to a full-fledged scientific model, teaching us new things about neuroscience, genomics, and behavior. In 2015, researchers published the first complete genome sequence of the California two-spot octopus, and it marked a watershed moment in the study of cognition. For the first time, scientists could look directly at the genetic architecture behind an intelligence built on an evolutionary branch completely separate from our own. The two-spot became the go-to organism for this work because it is abundant in local waters, manageable in laboratory settings, and displays a level of problem solving that can be tested and observed in controlled conditions. I guess they make great pets, too, because several folks on Instagram have them and make pretty entertaining videos with them.
The genome of the two-spot octopus turned out to carry a treasure trove of evolutionary surprises. One of the most striking discoveries was the massive expansion of protocadherin genes, which guide how neurons connect and communicate. Vertebrates like humans have them, too, but octopuses have many more. This genetic abundance appears tailored to their unusual nervous system. Roughly two-thirds of an octopus’s neurons are not in its central brain but distributed throughout its arms. Each arm can process sensory information and make decisions locally, while still coordinating with the rest of the animal.
According to Roger Hanlon, who I have worked with, octopuses are colorblind, and yet they have this remarkable ability to change color to fit their surroundings. It may be the most remarkable camouflage ability in the animal world, and yet we still understand surprisingly little about how it works. In addition to neurons, their skin and arms appear to contain opsins, light-detecting cells, raising the possibility that octopuses do not just see with their eyes, but with their bodies as well.
I mean, does it get more alien than that? That’s the stuff of serious sci-fi.
The author filming a cuttlefish in Indonesia. (Photo: Hergen Spalink)
The genome also revealed a wide set of genes involved in learning, neural flexibility, and sensory perception. Many of the same kinds of genes that support cognition in vertebrates appear in octopuses too, but they have been expanded and reworked, suggesting that evolution arrived at intelligence using a very different blueprint.
Perhaps the most surprising discovery is the octopus’s heavy reliance on RNA editing. RNA editing is the process by which cells deliberately alter RNA after it has been copied from DNA. If DNA is the master blueprint, RNA is the working set of instructions, and in octopuses that working copy can be extensively rewritten, especially in the nervous system. While other animals can do this on a small scale, this unusual molecular flexibility in the octopus may help their nervous systems adapt and respond with a level of speed and sophistication that maybe helps explain their problem-solving abilities and behavioral creativity, even if scientists are still working out exactly how it all works.
We’re really at the beginning of an effort to better understand this animal’s remarkable abilities and how it compares with our own unique intelligence. What we have learned so far is that octopus intelligence is real, measurable, and deeply unusual. In experiments, octopuses can solve puzzles, open jars, navigate mazes, remember solutions over time, and learn by watching others. Stories of octopuses escaping their tanks, squirting water at people they recognize, or slipping away from handlers they seem to dislike are surprisingly common. When I was a summer docent at the National Museum in Washington D.C. many years ago, there was an octopus that would greet me by draping an arm over the edge of the glass whenever I came in. Walking up to the tank felt less like approaching an exhibit and more like being welcomed by a friend.
Yes, I know, there is real danger in anthropomorphizing animals.
California two-spot octopus in a lab (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Many of my friends who are aware of my love for these animals beseeched me to watch My Octopus Teacher, the Oscar-winning documentary film. I’ve seen it twice, and I have to say that while I love many of the shots and scenes in the film, I feel like the movie goes way overboard making these animals seem like they have human emotions. I’m not sure they do. Something else is going on, I’m just not sure what it is.
All of this is to say that we are blessed here in California to have such an amazing species in our local waters. The California two-spot octopus is more than an interesting coastal species; it is a window into how minds can form in ways we never imagined. Its genome offers clues to the very nature of intelligence, demonstrating that cognition can arise from wholly different evolutionary routes. In that sense, studying this unassuming little animal on our shoreline may be the closest we come to understanding an alien mind without ever leaving Earth.
I recently revisited a book I enjoyed: The Blue Machine by physicist, oceanographer, and writer Helen Czerski. It is a beautifully clear exploration of the deep mechanics of the ocean and why those processes are so essential to keeping our planet cool, biodiverse, and stable.
One of the core ideas she returns to is ocean upwelling, a process that is especially important for those of us who live in California. Upwelling is one of those hidden forces that quietly underlies everything around us, and once you read about it, you realize that so much of what we know and love here simply would not exist without it.
Few marine processes are as impactful on the abundance of sea life off the coast of California as upwelling. It may not be a term you’ve heard before, but the natural oceanic process of upwelling is one of the most important engines driving climate, biological diversity, and the ocean’s food web.
It’s time to pay attention.
The abundance of sea life around some of California’s oil rigs is due in part to ocean upwelling near the continental shelf. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
In simple terms, upwelling is when cold, nutrient-rich water from the deep ocean rises to the surface, replacing warmer surface water. A churn. Along the California coast, prevailing northerly winds push surface waters offshore through the Coriolis effect, allowing deeper, colder water to rise in their place. Over the continental shelf off shore California, this upwelled water is rapidly brought into shallower depths, delivering nutrients directly into the photic zone where phytoplankton can grow. This is one reason continental shelves, including areas around offshore oil platforms (which I wrote about a few weeks ago), are biological hotspots.
California’s upwelling system is one of the most intensively studied in the world because it fuels the region’s crazy marine productivity.
In California, upwelling occurs year-round off the northern and central coast. It’s strongest in the spring and summer when northwesterly winds are at their most powerful. Upwelling is reduced in the fall and winter when winds are more variable.
Killer whales benefit from upwelling because the nutrient-rich waters fuel a surge in phytoplankton, which triggers an increase in the populations of smaller prey fish and marine mammals that orcas rely on for sustenance. (Photo: NOAA)
Researchers from institutions like the Scripps Institution of Oceanography and Stanford University have used a variety of methods, including satellite observations and computer modeling, to study upwelling. One of the groundbreaking studies was the CalCOFI program (California Cooperative Oceanic Fisheries Investigations), which began in the late 1940s. It was a joint venture between Scripps and state and federal agencies to investigate the collapse of the sardine fishery. The study showed that the sardine collapse was not just due to overfishing but also large-scale ocean and climate variability, a finding that reshaped fisheries science. Over decades, it has expanded its scope and now provides invaluable long-term datasets that help scientists understand upwelling and its impacts on marine populations.
Deep, cold ocean water is rich in nutrients because organic matter from the surface sinks as it dies or is consumed, and is broken down at depth, releasing nutrients back into the water. When that water is brought to the surface through upwelling, it delivers a fresh supply of nutrients that fuels phytoplankton growth and supports the entire marine food web.
The food web is kind of like a ladder. Or a chain. Nutrient-rich cold waters support blooms of phytoplankton: microscopic, photosynthetic organisms (meaning they are teeming with chlorophyll) that produce oxygen and form the base of marine food webs. When these primary producers flourish, it triggers a chain reaction throughout the ecosystem: zooplankton feed on phytoplankton, small fish feed on zooplankton, and larger predators, including fish, marine mammals, seabirds, (and humans) reap the rewards! So a well functioning upwelling system is pretty important for abundant sea life.
Also, cold water holds more dissolved gases like oxygen compared to warm water (yet another reason that warming seas could be a problem in the future). Oxygen is crucial for marine animals. In cold, oxygen-rich environments, organisms can efficiently carry out metabolic processes, which leads to higher rates of feeding, growth, and reproduction, thereby further boosting biological productivity. Everyone wins!
But there’s a problem.
Sardines off the coast of California (Photo: NOAA)
Studies have shown that natural changes in climate, like El Niño and La Niña events have a significant impact on wildlife and the local ocean ecosystem. During El Niño events, warmer waters and weaker upwelling reduce nutrient levels in the California Current, lowering phytoplankton productivity and causing deadly ripples through the food web. La Niña conditions generally strengthen upwelling, bringing nutrient-rich water to the surface and boosting marine productivity.
Climate change adds a potentially dangerous new layer of uncertainty: oceans are warming and growing more acidic, which can disrupt the timing, strength, and benefits of upwelling. While climate change does not necessarily mean more El Niño years, it does mean that El Niño events now play out in a warmer ocean, often amplifying their impacts and increasing stress on marine life, with serious consequences for some organisms.
Sea lions off the Southern California coast. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
We’ve been seeing some of these impacts. Take sea lions and large fish populations. In years of strong upwelling, prey is more abundant and closer to shore, allowing California sea lions to forage more efficiently and increasing populations. During weak upwelling years, prey becomes scarcer and more dispersed, forcing sea lions to travel farther for food, increasing stress and reducing reproductive success. Variations like this have been observed in recent years during El Niño periods along the California coast, showing how quickly marine ecosystems respond to shifts in ocean conditions.
Of course, upwelling isn’t just a California thing; it’s a global phenomenon that occurs in various parts of the world, from the coasts of Peru to the Canary Islands. It serves a similar churning life inducing function in these places, too. But California is sort of the poster child for scientists thanks to extensive research here and its vital role in a multi-billion dollar fishing industry that includes species like albacore tuna, swordfish, Dungeness crab, squid, and sardines.
Anacaps Island in California’s Channel Islands (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Upwelling is one of those critical oceanic processes that helps maintain our stable and immensely productive California waters, but warming ocean temperatures and changes in wind patterns could cause big problems, disrupting the timing and intensity of upwelling, putting sea life off California’s coast at risk.
Pick up some California wildlife gifts at our Etsy store. Seriously, they’re cool.
Of course, I do not mean for this piece to be yet another downer about climate change. California’s coastal ecosystem is, in many ways, healthier today than it has been in decades, thanks to policies and practices put in place once we began to understand what was truly at stake. Whenever I get offshore and experience the ocean firsthand, I feel deeply grateful for what we have now, even as I remain aware that it is something we could still damage if we’re stupid and careless…which is not out of the question. The encouraging part is that Californians have shown, again and again, a real capacity to rally when it matters. For now, then, it is worth appreciating what we have and getting out there to experience it whenever you get the chance.
If I told you that some of the richest, densest communities of marine life anywhere in the world thrive off California, you might not be surprised. We all know California has a vibrant marine ecosystem offshore. But if I told you that much of that life clings to the submerged steel legs of offshore oil rigs, you might pause, blink, and say: really?
The answer is yes.
I know because I have dived a few of them several times. Most recently this November, when I took a dive boat called the Giant Stride out of San Pedro and motored 12 miles out to the Eureka platform, which sits in 700 feet of water. From the deck, the rig looms like a floating city of steel and shadow, its massive pylon legs disappearing into the depths below.
The Eureka oil rig off the coast of California from the Giant Stride dive boat. An industrial behemoth above water, beneath, it is home to an immense diversity of sea life. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
But below the surface is another world, one teeming with millions of colorful fish, including blazing orange garibaldi, schools of dark blue blacksmiths, halfmoons, calico bass, yellowtail, and even the occasional mola mola or sunfish. A few rigs are the playground of scores of jubilant sea lions, many of them precocious youngsters that swoop and spin in the waters beneath the massive structure of the rigs like children let loose in a grassy park.
Playful sea lions frolic around the rigs beneath the surface. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
And then there are the pylons themselves and the life they support. Made of welded steel, these massive structures hold the entire oil platform above the water, millions of tons of machinery and deck space, often topped by a helicopter pad, all balanced on the integrity of engineering. Some descend straight down into the darkening waters, while others are reinforced by diagonal braces and horizontal crossbeams, a lattice of intersecting steel that keeps the rig steady against waves and wind.
But up close, you can hardly make out the metal. The substructure is so encrusted with life, layers of scallops, brittle stars, mussels, anemones, barnacles, and sponges, that the steel beneath has vanished into a living reef. In some areas, there are thousands of brittle stars clinging to the structure, they lie so thick on it that it’s hard to imagine how they compete for food. But food here is plentiful, and that abundance is one reason these rigs harbor so much life. They stand near the edge of the continental shelf, where the seafloor plunges into deeper water and cold, nutrient-rich currents surge upward toward the light. Those nutrients ignite blooms of plankton, feeding swarms of tiny crustaceans and filter feeders that coat the rig’s pilings. Those smaller creatures, in turn, sustain fish, sea lions, and even passing seabirds, a food web in full expression, built around the steel spine of an oil platform.
Brittle stars, mussels and other oprganisms blanket the rig supports in incredible numbers. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
All of this is not just my observation, however. Numerous studies have been done about the life on the rigs and most of them point to an astonishing fact: these rigs are some of the most productive ecosystems on the planet. In one study, University of California Santa Barbara marine biologist Milton Love and his colleagues found that certain platforms, including Eureka, produced more fish biomass per square meter than even the most productive natural environments in the world. More than mangroves, coral reefs, estuaries, etc.
The Eureka rig off the coast of Southern California. Once built to pump oil, it’s now also home to sea lions, fish, and a reef of life growing on its legs below the waves. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
This is good news for everyone. But there’s more. Other research suggests that the life flourishing on these offshore rigs doesn’t stay confined to them; it drifts, swims, and spawns its way back toward the coast, helping to replenish nearshore habitats. Rockfish are a perfect example. Once severely overfished, several species have made a remarkable comeback in California waters, perhaps due in part to these structures. As we wrote recently, the recovery of rockfish is one of the state’s quiet success stories.
But there’s a hitch.
Pick up some California wildlife gifts at our Etsy store. Seriously, they’re cool.
Several of these rigs are now nearing, or have already reached, the end of their productive lifespan, meaning that they no longer produce much oil. What should be done with them? In California, when offshore oil rigs reach the end of their productive life, state law mandates their decommissioning, which involves safely plugging wells, dismantling structures, and restoring the environment. Traditionally, this has meant full removal of the platform and associated infrastructure: a very expensive proposition, likely costing in the billions of dollars.
Clusters of mussels and strawberry anemones (Corynactis californica) coat the rig’s submerged structure in a dense mosaic of color. They form living carpets over the steel, while mussels, bryozoans, and brittle stars fill the gaps between them. (Photo: Erik Olsen)
However, the California Marine Resources Legacy Act (AB 2503), enacted in 2010, introduced an alternative known as the “rigs-to-reefs” program. This legislation allows oil companies to apply for permits to partially remove decommissioned rigs, essentially shearing off the part of the structure above water and leaving a portion of it underwater to serve as artificial reefs. Obviously they’d do it deep enough, about 80 feet, that the structure would not become a hazard to ship traffic. The goal is to enhance marine habitats by preserving the ecosystems that have developed around these structures over time. Rig removal is a growing billion-dollar-a-year business, and by removing only part of the rig and leaving behind the rest, an oil company can save millions in decommissioning costs.
As of January 2024, there are eight offshore production platforms in various stages of decommissioning; several have had multiple owners and operators. It’s complicated, but the biggest issue is liability. That is, what happens down the line when there is a leak, or if the plugging of the wells was done improperly? Who pays for that? This is all being hashed out, as it has been for some 20 years now. Californians hate oil washing up on their beaches. Many hate the idea of the oil companies getting a financial break after plundering the sea floor for oil. But there is no denying that all that life is there. You can see it. And, as Milton Love said: “If you remove a platform, you may be killing tens of millions of animals because they happened to settle on steel instead of a rock. Which I think is a tragedy.”
Substructure of the Eureka rig above water in California (Erik Olsen)
Oil companies have not used California’s Rigs-to-Reefs law because it leaves them financially and legally burdened. They must keep long-term liability for the structures and give up to 80 percent of their cost savings to the state, which makes full removal simpler and less risky than the complex and politically sensitive reefing process.
And so, as some of these platforms near the end of their productive lives, a significant debate has emerged over their future. Should they be removed entirely, or could they be repurposed into artificial reefs that continue to support marine biodiversity? The discussion is not just about engineering challenges or environmental concerns; it’s about reimagining the relationship between human infrastructure and the natural world.
Amber Sparks led the expedition I took out to the rigs. I’ve dived with her several times before and believe she’s a passionate advocate for sea life and for a healthy offshore California marine ecosystem. She and her co-founder Emily Hazelwood are strong supporters of reefing the rigs, and through their work with Blue Latitudes, they collaborates with scientists, government agencies, and oil companies to explore ways decommissioned platforms could be transformed into permanent marine habitats rather than dismantled and removed.
“The big question is, are these structures good habitat that should be left in place to continue to thrive as reefs, or should they be removed? In my opinion, they would be really valuable to be left in place as reefs.”
A brittle star falls through the water column beneath the Eureka rig (Erik Olsen)
So where do things stand today? A December 2023 Public Environmental Impact Statement (PEIS) from the Bureau of Safety and Environmental Enforcement and Bureau of Ocean Energy Management marks the most recent major development in the offshore rig debate, and it could significantly shape future decommissioning of California’s oil platforms. Though the PEIS identifies partial removal as the environmentally preferable option (italics mine) because it would preserve the habitat of existing biological communities, the agencies involved selected “Alternative 1a”, mandating complete removal of platform jackets and associated infrastructure offshore southern California. The final decision over what to do with the rigs has not yet been made, but the current wisdom suggests that they may have to go. As a diver and novice fisherman, I consider this a shame.
Public opposition to “big oil” remains strong in California, fueling demands among small but vocal groups for the complete removal of oil rigs, despite the potential loss of coral-like ecosystems. Environmental groups like the Natural Resources Defense Council argue that retaining any portion of these structures enables the oil industry to persist as an environmental threat.
Beneath the surface of a California oil rig, a vibrant colony of pink strawberry anemones transforms industrial infrastructure into an underwater oasis. (Erik Olsen)
“People here have been waiting for these oil platforms to go away,” Linda Krop, an environmental lawyer with the Environmental Defense Center, an advocacy group based in Santa Barbara, told the me when I reported on this for the New York Times. Ms. Krop challenged the notion that the science definitively supports the role of rigs in fostering marine life. She argued that leaving the rigs in place would effectively reward polluters by allowing them to avoid the expense of removal.
Globally, the concept of Rigs-to-Reefs has seen success, particularly in the Gulf of Mexico, where over 500 platforms have been converted into artificial reefs. These structures have become magnets for fish and invertebrates, supporting commercial and recreational fishing and diving industries. However, critics argue that not all programs are created equal. In some regions, lax regulations have allowed oil companies to avoid fully addressing environmental risks, leaving behind structures that degrade over time and release pollutants. California’s approach, with its stringent oversight and commitment to environmental benefits, aims to avoid these pitfalls while maximizing ecological gains.
The oil rigs substructure provides a fascinating contrast to the life on large sections of it. (Erik Olsen)
What happens to California’s oil platforms will reveal how the state chooses to balance economic legacy with ecological responsibility. Few would argue that oil companies deserve further rewards after decades of drilling and profits, yet the decision ahead is not so simple, it is about what becomes of the ecosystems that have grown around their steel foundations. There should be a way to move forward responsibly, one that removes the risk and legacy of drilling while preserving the thriving marine life that has made these structures their home.
A few months ago, I took a fishing trip out to the western side of San Clemente Island. I woke at two in the morning to the rattle of the anchor chain dropping and stepped out onto the deck, expecting darkness all around us. Instead the night was alive with a strange glow. Dozens of squid boats floated offshore, their powerful lights illuminating the water with a bluish, Avatar-like brightness. The lights draw squid toward the surface before the crews scoop them up in nets.
As I knew from earlier research, and from being a long-time California resident, squid are one of California’s top commercial fisheries, a multimillion-dollar industry built around what is known as market squid. They thrive in enormous numbers in the deep waters around the Channel Islands and up toward Santa Barbara, even though the average beachgoer rarely thinks about them. From the rail of the fishing boat I was I could see vast swarms just below the surface.
Squid boat off shore San Clemente Island (Photo: Erik Olsen)
When dawn broke, San Clemente Island emerged ahead of us, and I was struck by how stark and empty it looked. In both directions stretched the same raw, rugged coastline, with almost no sign of human presence (there were what appeared to be radio towers on the top of a peak, but no people).
It felt desolate and otherworldly. But the reality is more complicated.
The island is part of the Channel Islands, a chain that trends east to west rather than the usual north–south pattern of most California ranges. The Channel Islands are often called North America’s Galápagos because they support an extraordinary number of species found nowhere else, shaped by the deep isolation that defines island biogeography (we wrote about this earlier).
San Clemente Island (photo: U.S. Navy)
San Clemente is no exception. The island is abundant in wildlife, with its own collection of rare plants and animals. But what makes it stand apart from the other islands is the scale of the military activity just beyond the barren cliffs. The U.S. Navy conducts constant training here, including missile tests, amphibious landings, and live-fire exercises. The island is considered one of the most important training grounds for the United States military, operating around the clock even as endangered species cling to survival in the canyons and plateaus nearby.
San Clemente Island looks like a long volcanic ridge from offshore, but it has been one of the most important and least visible military landscapes in California for almost a century. It is the southernmost of the Channel Islands and has been owned entirely by the U.S. Navy since the late 1930s. Over time it became a central part of Naval Base Coronado, and today its main airfield supports helicopters, jets, drones, and special operations teams that rotate through the island throughout the year.
It all seemed really interesting. I desperately wanted to go ashore, but if I’d tried, I almost certainly would have been arrested.
Live fire training exercises with mortars on San Clemente Island Photo: (Spc. William Franco Espinosa / U.S. Army National Guard)
The island began shaping military history just before World War II. In 1939, naval engineers brought early versions of the Higgins boat to San Clemente Island to test how they handled surf, wind, and timing with naval gunfire. These flat-bottomed landing craft became essential to Allied victories in places like Normandy and Guadalcanal. The island’s rugged shoreline helped the US military refine the tactics behind the amphibious assaults that defined twentieth century warfare.
During the Cold War, San Clemente Island evolved into one of the Navy’s busiest live fire training sites. The waters around Pyramid Cove hosted decommissioned ships used as targets. Carrier air wings practiced bombing runs across the southern plateau. Marine units rehearsed ship-to-shore landings on isolated beaches, while submarines conducted simulated missions under restricted airspace. We did a short video you can watch here.
Few places on the West Coast allowed sea, air, and land forces to operate together with real weapons, and the island’s remoteness made it ideal for rehearsing missions that couldn’t take place near populated coastlines. Yet all of this is happening just about 60 miles offshore from Los Angeles. (It took us about five hours to get back).
Higgins Boat (Photo: US Navy)
Civilian access has always been extremely limited, which is why the island only reaches the news when something unusual happens. One widely reported event occurred in 2023, when a private pilot illegally landed a small plane on the island’s runway and then stole a Navy truck before being detained. He tried again in 2025. This kind of thing underscores how isolated and tightly controlled the installation is. For the most part, the only people who ever set foot on the island are service members using it as a sophisticated, real world training environment.
Oh, and scientists, too.
That’s because the island’s natural history has been studied intensively. Decades ago, ranching introduced goats, sheep, and invasive plants that stripped vegetation from entire hillsides. Feral cats and rats preyed greedily on ground nesting birds, and live fire exercises fragmented habitat. By the 1970s and 1980s, San Clemente Island held one of the highest concentrations of endangered species in California, but everything was under threat.
San Clemente Island looks otherworldly and barren from a fishing boat (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Enter the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, which worked with the military to balance military readiness with the legal requirements of the Endangered Species Act. And it’s been, by many measures, a pretty major success.
No species became more symbolic of the struggle to protect the island than the San Clemente loggerhead shrike, a lovely, black masked songbird that lives nowhere else on Earth. By the late 1990s its wild population had fallen to as few as fourteen individuals. The Navy funded a comprehensive recovery effort that included captive breeding, predator removal, and habitat reconstruction, all with the expertise help of the San Diego Zoo Wildlife Alliance. By restoring vegetation and extensive breeding, scientists released shrikes which eventually began to hunt, build territories, and raise their young. The species is now considered one of the most successful island bird recoveries in North America.
The San Clemente Island fox, once threatened by habitat loss and predation, has rebounded significantly thanks to intensive conservation efforts that stabilized its population and restored its native ecosystem. (Photo: USFWS)
And that wasn’t the only success. Once goats and sheep were removed, native shrubs and herbs began returning to the island. Endemic plants such as the San Clemente Island lotus and San Clemente Island paintbrush, responded quickly once the pressure from grazing disappeared. In 2023, after decades of habitat recovery, the Fish and Wildlife Service announced that five island species were healthy enough to be removed from the endangered species list, a pretty cool milestone that suggested a major ecological turnaround for San Clemente and the Channel Islands as a whole.
San Clemente Island lotus (Photo: USFWS)
Today, San Clemente Island remains one of the most unusual places in California. It is a live fire training range where carrier groups, SEAL teams, and Marines rehearse some of the most complex operations in the Navy. It is also a refuge where rare birds and plants have recovered after hovering near extinction. Conservation biologists and military planners now coordinate schedules, field surveys, and habitat protections to keep both missions intact. There’s an excellent documentary on this recovery effort made by SoCal PBS.
California has become a national leader in restoring damaged ecosystems. And while the state has lost much of its original wildness over the centuries, it also offers some of the most compelling examples of species and habitats recovered from the brink. San Clemente Island is more ecologically stable today than at any point in the past century, and it continues to serve as one of the Navy’s most valuable training grounds.
You can scroll endlessly through TikTok and Instagram for quick bursts of California’s beauty, but to truly sink into a subject, and to savor the craft of a great writer, you need a book. I’m an avid reader, and over the past decade I’ve dedicated a large section of my bookshelf to books about California: its wild side, its nature, and its scientific wonders.
There are surely many other books that could be included in this top ten list, but these are the finest I’ve come across in the years since returning to live in the state.They capture the extraordinary diversity of California’s landscapes and wildlife, found nowhere else on Earth, and many also explore issues and themes that hold deep importance for the state and its people. Although I’ve read some of these titles digitally, I love having many of them in print, because there are few things more satisfying than settling into a beach, a forest campsite, or a favorite chair at home with a beautifully made book in hand.
I first discovered Rosanna Xia’s work through her stunning exposé on the thousands of DDT barrels found dumped on the seafloor near Catalina Island. It remains one of the most shocking, and yet not technically illegal, environmental scandals in California’s history.
Her recent book, California Against the Sea: Visions for Our Vanishing Coastline, is a beautifully written and deeply reported look at how California’s coastal communities are confronting the realities of climate change and rising seas. Xia travels the length of the state, from Imperial Beach to Pacifica, weaving together science, policy, and personal stories to show how erosion, flooding, and climate change are already reshaping lives. What makes the book stand out is its relative balance; it’s not a screed, nor naïvely hopeful. It nicely captures the tension between human settlement — our love and need to be near the ocean — and the coast’s natural (and unnatural, depending on how you look at it) cycles of change.
Xia is at her best when exploring adaptation and equity. She reminds us that even if emissions stopped today, the ocean will keep rising, and that not all communities have equal means to respond. The stories of engineers, Indigenous leaders, and ordinary residents highlight how resilience and adaptation must be rooted in local realities. I was especially drawn to Xia’s account of the California Coastal Commission, a wildly controversial agency that wields immense power over the future of the shoreline. Yet it was the commission and its early champions, such as Peter Douglas, who ensured that California’s coast remained open and accessible to all, a decision I consider one of the greatest legislative achievements in modern conservation history.
Thoughtful, accessible, and rooted in the coast we all care about, California Against the Sea challenges us to ask a pressing question: how can we live wisely, and with perspective, at the edge of a changing world?
Kim Stanley Robinson’s The High Sierra: A Love Story is an expansive, heartfelt tribute to California’s most iconic mountain range. Because of the Sierra’s vast internal basins, which are missing from many of the world’s other great mountain ranges, Robinson argues they are among the best mountains on Earth. His point is hard to refute. He makes a convincing case that the Sierra Nevada may be the greatest range in the world, formed from the planet’s largest single block of exposed granite and lifted over millions of years into its dramatic present shape.
Blending memoir, geology (my favorite part of the book), and adventure writing, Robinson chronicles his own decades of exploration in the Sierra Nevada while tracing the forces — glacial, tectonic, and emotional, that shaped both the landscape and his own life.
Considered one of our greatest living science fiction writers (I’ve read Red Mars — long, but superb — and am currently reading The Ministry for the Future — the opening chapter is gripping and terrifying), Robinson might seem an unlikely guide to the granite heights of California. Yet reading The High Sierra: A Love Story reveals how naturally his fascination with imagined worlds extends into this very real one. The drama of the range, with its light, vastness, and sculpted peaks and basins, feels like raw material for his other universes.
The Dreamt Land is a portrait of California’s Central Valley, where the control of water has defined everything from landscape to power (power in the form of hydroelectric energy and human control over who gets to shape and profit from the valley’s vast resources). Blending investigative journalism, history, and memoir, Arax explores how the state’s rivers, dams, and aqueducts turned desert into farmland and how that transformation came at immense ecological and social cost.
I’ve read several Arax books, but this one is my favorite. He’s one of the finest writers California has produced. He writes with passion and clarity, grounding his ideas in decades of firsthand experience with California’s land and water. His focus on the fertile Central Valley, where he grew up as a reporter and farmer’s son, gives the book both intimacy and authority, revealing how decisions about water shape not just the landscape but the people who depend on it. There are heroes and villains, plenty of the latter, and all of them unmistakably real. Yet Arax’s prose is so fluid and eloquent that you’ll keep reading not only for the story, but for the sheer pleasure of his writing.
If you’re at all fascinated by California’s wild geology — and it truly is wild, just ask any geologist — this classic from one of the finest nonfiction writers alive is a must-read. McPhee takes readers on a geological road-trip through California, from the uplifted peaks of the Sierra Nevada to the fault-riven terrain of the San Andreas zone. He teams up with UC Davis geologist Eldridge Moores to explain how oceanic plates, island arcs, and continental blocks collided over millions of years to “assemble” the landmass we now call California. His prose is classic McPhee: clean, vivid, perhaps sometimes overly technical, as he turns terms like “ophiolite” and “batholith” into aspects of a landscape you can picture and feel.
What makes the book especially rewarding, especially for someone interested in earth systems, mapping, and the deep time, is how McPhee seamlessly links everyday places with deep-time events. You’ll read about gold-rush mining camps and vineyard soils, but all of it is rooted in tectonics, uplift, erosion, and transformation. I’ve gotten some of my favorite stories here on California Curated from the pages of this book. It can be ponderous at times, but you’ll not regret giving it a try.
Obi Kaufman’s California Lands Trilogy is one of the most visually stunning and ambitious projects in California natural history publishing. Beginning with The Forests of California, the first of three volumes that reimagine the state not through its highways or cities but through its living systems, Kaufman invites readers to see California as a vast and interconnected organism, a place defined by its natural rhythms rather than human boundaries. Each book is filled with delicate watercolor maps and diagrams by the author himself. The result is part art book and part ecological manifesto, a celebration of the interconnectedness of California’s natural world. Kaufman’s talents as an artist are breathtaking. If he ever offered his original watercolors for sale, I’d be among the first in line to buy them. Taken together, the series forms a panoramic vision of the state’s natural environments.
That said, Kaufman’s books can be dense, filled with data, maps, and cross-references that reward slow reading more than quick browsing. If I’m honest, I tend to dip in and out of them, picking them up when I’m bored or need a break from the latest political bombshell. Every page offers something to linger over, whether it’s a river system painted like a circulatory map or a meditation on the idea of rewilding. For anyone fascinated by California’s natural systems, all Kaufman’s Field Atlases are invaluable companions endlessly worth revisiting.
My first job out of college was with the Department of the Interior in Washington, D.C., by far by the nation’s largest land management agency. A big part of that work involved traveling to sites managed by Interior across the country. I came to understand just how vast America’s public lands are and how much of that expanse, measured in millions of acres, is under the care of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
Josh Jackson takes readers on a road trip across California’s often overlooked public wilderness, focusing on the lands managed by the BLM, an agency once jokingly referred to as the Bureau of Livestock and Mining. He shows how these so-called “leftover lands” hold stories of geology, Indigenous presence, extraction, and conservation.
His prose and photography (he has a wonderful eye for landscapes) together invite the reader to slow down, look closely at the subtleties of desert mesas, sagebrush plains, and coastal bluffs, and reckon with what it means to protect places many people have never heard of. His use of the environmental psychology concept of “place attachment” struck a chord with me. The theory suggests that people form deep emotional and psychological bonds with natural places, connections that shape identity, memory, and a sense of belonging. As a frequent visitor to the Eastern Sierra, especially around Mammoth Lakes and Mono Lake, I was particularly drawn to Jackson’s chapter on that region. His account of the lingering impacts of the Mining Act of 1872, and how its provisions still allow for questionable practices today, driven by high gold prices, was eye-opening. I came away with new insights, which is always something I value in a book.
I should mention that I got my copy of the book directly from Josh, who lives not far from me in Southern California. We spent a few hours at a cafe in Highland Park talking about the value and beauty of public lands, and as I sat there flipping through the book, I couldn’t help but acknowledge how striking it is. Part of that comes from Heyday Books’ exceptional attention to design and production. Heyday also publishes Obi Kaufman’s work and they remain one of California’s great independent publishers. But much my appreciation for the book also comes from from Jackson himself, whose photographs are simply outstanding.
Get California wildlife gifts at our Etsy store. It helps support us!
What makes this book especially compelling is its blend of adventure and stewardship. Jackson doesn’t simply celebrate wildness; he also lays out the human and institutional connections that shape (and threaten) these public lands, from grazing rights to mining to climate-change impacts. Some readers may find the breadth of landscapes and stories a little ambitious for a first book, yet the richness of the journey and the accessibility of the writing make it a strong addition for anyone interested in California’s endless conflict over land use: what should be used for extraction and what should be preserved? While I don’t fully agree with Jackson on the extent to which certain lands should be preserved, I still found the book a wonderful exploration of that question.
Amy Tan’s The Backyard Bird Chronicles is a charming and unexpectedly personal journal of bird-watching, set in the yard of Tan’s Bay Area home. Tan is an excellent writer, as one would expect from a wildly successful novelist (The Joy Luck Club, among others). But she also brings a curiosity and wonder to the simple act of looking across one’s backyard. I loved it. Who among us in California doesn’t marvel at the sheer diversity of birds we see every day? And who hasn’t wondered about the secret lives they lead? A skilled illustrator as well as a writer, she studies the birds she observes by sketching them, using art as a way to closely connect with the natural world around her.
What begins as a peaceful retreat during the Covid catastrophe becomes an immersive odyssey of observation and drawing. Tan captures the comings and goings of more than sixty bird species, sketches their lively antics, as she reflects on how these small winged neighbors helped calm her inner world when the larger world felt unsteady.
My only quibble is that I was hoping for more scientific depth; the book is more of a meditation than a field study. Still, for anyone who loves birds, sketching, or the quiet beauty of everyday nature, it feels like a gentle invitation to slow down and truly look.
California is the most botanically diverse state in the U.S. (by a long shot), home to more than 6,500 native plant species, about a third of which exist nowhere else on Earth. Jared Farmer’s Trees in Paradise: A California History follows four key tree species in California: the redwood, eucalyptus, orange, and palm. Through these examples, Farmer reveals how Californians have reshaped the state’s landscape and its identity. It’s rich in scientific and historical detail. I have discovered several story ideas in the book for California Curated and learned a great deal about the four trees that we still see everywhere in the California landscape.
In telling the story of these four trees (remember, both the eucalyptus and the palm were largely brought here from other places), Farmer avoids easy sentimentality or harsh judgment, instead exploring how the creation of a “paradise” in California came with ecological costs and profoundly shaped the state’s identity. While the book concentrates on those four tree categories, its detailed research and insight make it a compelling read for anyone interested in the state’s environment, history, and the ways people shape and are shaped by land.
