California has long been a hub for berry innovation, boasting a rich history of developing countless berry cultivars. While it’s tough to pin down an exact number, the state’s contributions span a wide range of fruits, from strawberries to blackberries to loganberries, raspberries, and even blueberries.
Somewhere in the pantheon of berries, tucked between the familiar blackberry and the enigmatic lingonberry (a Scandinavian staple, just ask the Swedes, or swing by IKEA), you’ll find the boysenberry. With its deep maroon color, plump size, and a flavor that dances between sweet and tart, the boysenberry is a delicious emblem of California’s horticultural creativity. (Who knew we needed yet another berry?) But how did this berry come to be, and what’s the story behind a Southern California amusement park helping to make it famous?
The journey of the boysenberry begins with its namesake, Rudolph Boysen. In the early 1920s, Boysen, a curious California-based farmer and horticulturist, began experimenting with berry plants at his home in Napa, California. His objective? To develop a new hybrid berry that combined the best attributes of the European raspberry, blackberry, American dewberry, and loganberry.
Rudolph Boysen
On relocating to Orange County, he didn’t leave his passion behind; instead, he brought along his precious berry vines, planting them on his in-law’s property in Anaheim, which at that time was a relatively unpopulated expanse dominated by vast orange and lemon groves, interspersed with small farms and ranches.
Between 1921 and 1950, Boysen dedicated his professional life to serving as the Anaheim City Parks superintendent. His persistent efforts bore fruit (ha) in 1923 when his hybrid successfully grafted and flourished. However, while Boysen was successful in creating the berry, he faced challenges in cultivating it on a larger scale. Some years after his initial success, a near-fatal accident sidelined him, and his boysenberry plants began to wither, seemingly destined for obscurity.
Enter Walter Knott, another farmer with an insatiable curiosity and a healthy dose of ambition,. Upon discovering that Boysen had given up his cultivation experiments and sold his property, Knott went in search of the delicious berry. Accompanied by George M. Darrow of the USDA, the duo ventured to Boysen’s former farm. There, amidst an overgrowth of weeds, they discovered a few withering vines clinging to life. Determined to give these vines a new lease on life, they carefully relocated them to Knott’s farm in Buena Park, California. With diligent care and attention, Knott revived these plants, enabling them to thrive and produce fruit once again. As a result, Walter Knott became the pioneering figure in the commercial cultivation of the berry in Southern California. Knott learned about Boysen’s creation and, understanding its potential, sought out the remaining withered vines.
Knott’s Berry Farm
With a blend of horticultural expertise and an entrepreneur’s spirit, Knott not only rescued the dying boysenberry vines but also began cultivating and selling the berries on his own farm, which was located in Buena Park, California.
As the berries grew in popularity, so did Knott’s business. By the 1940s, Knott’s farm had transformed into a bustling destination, offering visitors not just the chance to buy fresh boysenberries and boysenberry products, but also to experience the charm of a recreated ghost town and other attractions. As the business evolved, it gave birth to what is now known as Knott’s Berry Farm, one of the most popular amusement parks in Southern California.
Today, it’s a full-blown amusement park with high-speed roller coasters like GhostRider, a massive wooden coaster, and Silver Bullet, a looping steel ride that twists over the park’s lake. The Timber Mountain Log Ride, one of the park’s most beloved attractions, simulates a journey through a 19th-century logging camp, complete with animatronic lumberjacks and sawmills. It’s a tribute to the massive wooden flumes that loggers once built to move timber from deep in the forest down to the mills and markets. One of the largest of these flumes was at Converse Basin, once home to the biggest contiguous grove of giant sequoias on Earth. That same area became the site of one of the most devastating logging operations in American history, where thousands of ancient sequoias—some millenia old—were cut down in the rush to harvest timber. We did a story about it you can read here. It’s a sobering reminder of how quickly early California’s natural wonders were exploited in the name of progress.
But back to Boysenberries. Let’s finish this one up, shall we?
Biologically, the boysenberry is a testament to the wonders of plant hybridization, showcasing the ability to combine distinct plant species to produce something entirely new. And tasty. The boysenberry isn’t just a product of careful crossbreeding, it’s a classic California story of perseverance, partnership, and a dose of luck. Sunshine helps too. It’s about how a nearly forgotten berry was saved from obscurity by two determined farmers and went on to become a symbol of California itself, thanks in part to the magic of an amusement park.
“Here in Pasadena, it is like Paradise. Always sunshine and clear air, gardens with palms and pepper trees and friendly people who smile at one and ask for autographs.” – Albert Einstein (U.S. Travel Diary, 1930-31, p. 28)
Albert Einstein is often associated with Princeton, where he spent his later years as a towering intellectual figure, and with Switzerland, where he worked as a young patent clerk in Bern. It was in that spartan, dimly lit office, far from the great universities of the time, that Einstein quietly transformed the world. In 1905, his annus mirabilis or “miracle year,” he published a series of four groundbreaking papers that upended physics and reshaped humanity’s understanding of space, time, and matter. With his insights into the photoelectric effect, Brownian motion, special relativity, and the equivalence of mass and energy (remember E=mc2?), he not only laid the foundation for quantum mechanics and modern physics but also set in motion technological revolutions that continue to shape the future. Pretty good for a guy who was just 26.
Albert Einstein spent his later years as a world-famous scientist traveling the globe and drawing crowds wherever he went. His letters and travel diaries show how much he loved exploring new places, whether it was the mountains of Switzerland, the temples of Japan, or the intellectual circles of his native Germany. In 1922, while on his way to accept the Nobel Prize, he and his wife, Elsa, arrived in Japan for a six-week tour, visiting Tokyo, Kyoto, and Osaka.
But of all the places he visited, one city stood out for him in particular. Pasadena, with its warm weather, lively culture, and, most importantly, its reputation as a scientific hub, had a deep personal appeal to Einstein. He visited Pasadena during the winters of 1931, 1932, and 1933, each time staying for approximately two to three months. These stays were longer than many of his other travels, giving him time to fully immerse himself in the city. He spent time at Caltech, exchanging ideas with some of the brightest minds in physics, and fully embraced the California experience, rubbing elbows with Hollywood stars (Charlie Chapman among them), watching the Rose Parade, and even tutoring local kids. Einstein may have only been a visitor, but his time in Pasadena underscores how deeply rooted science was in the city then, and how strongly that legacy endures today. Pasadena remains one of the rare places in the country where scientific inquiry and creative spirit continue to thrive side by side. Pasadena was among the earliest cities to get an Apple Store, with its Old Pasadena location opening in 2003.
Einstein’s residence at 707 South Oakland Avenue in Pasadena, where he stayed his first winter in California (CalTech Archives)
Few scientists have received the public adulation that Einstein did during his winter stays in Pasadena. As a hobbyist violinist, he engaged in one-on-one performances with the conductor of the Los Angeles Philharmonic. Local artists not only painted his image and cast him in bronze but also transformed him into a puppet figure. Frank J. Callier, a renowned violin craftsman, etched Einstein’s name into a specially carved bow and case.
During his first winter of residence in 1931, Einstein lived in a bungalow at 707 South Oakland Avenue. During the following two winters, he resided at Caltech’s faculty club, the Athenaeum, a faculty and private social club that is still there today.
Yet, the FBI was keeping a watchful eye on Einstein as well. He was one of just four German intellectuals, including Wilhelm Foerster, Georg Nicolai, and Otto Buek, to sign a pacifist manifesto opposing Germany’s entry into World War I. Later, Einstein aligned himself with Labor Zionism, a movement that supported Jewish cultural and educational development in Palestine, but he opposed the formation of a conventional Jewish state, instead calling for a peaceful, binational arrangement between Jews and Arabs.
In front of the Athenaeum Faculty Club, Caltech, 1932. (Courtesy of the Caltech Archives.)
After his annus mirabilis in 1905, Einstein’s influence grew rapidly. In 1919, his theory of relativity was confirmed during a solar eclipse by the English astronomer Sir Arthur Eddington. The announcement to the Royal Society made Einstein an overnight sensation among the general public, and in 1922, he was awarded the 1921 Nobel Prize in Physics. While teaching at the University of Berlin in 1930, Arthur H. Fleming, a lumber magnate and president of Caltech’s board, successfully persuaded him to visit the university during the winter. The visit was intended to remain a secret, but Einstein’s own travel arrangements inadvertently made it public knowledge.
Einstein speaking at the dedication of the Pasadena Junior College (now PCC) astronomy building, February 1931. (Courtesy of the Caltech Archives)
After arriving in San Diego on New Year’s Eve 1930, following a month-long journey on the passenger ship Belgenland, Einstein was swarmed by reporters and photographers. He and his second wife, Elsa, were greeted with cheers and Christmas carols. Fleming then drove them to Pasadena, where they settled into the bungalow on S Oakland Ave.
Albert Einstein and his violin (Caltech Archives)
During their first California stay, the Einsteins attended Charlie Chaplin’s film premiere and were guests at his Beverly Hills home. “Here in Pasadena, it is like Paradise,” Einstein wrote in a letter. He also visited the Mt. Wilson Observatory high in the San Gabriel Mountains. Einstein’s intellectual curiosity extended far beyond his scientific endeavors, leading him to explore the Huntington Library in San Marino, delighting in its rich collections. At the Montecito home of fellow scientist Ludwig Kast, he found comfort in being treated more as a tourist than a celebrity, relishing a brief respite from the spotlight.
In Palm Springs, Einstein relaxed at the winter estate of renowned New York attorney and human rights advocate Samuel Untermeyer. He also embarked on a unique adventure to the date ranch of King Gillette, the razor blade tycoon, where he left with a crate of dates and an intriguing observation. He noted that female date trees thrived with nurturing care, while male trees fared better in tough condition: “I discovered that date trees, the female, or negative, flourished under coddling and care, but in adverse conditions the male, or positive trees, succeeded best,” he said in a 1933 interview.
Not exactly relativity, but a curiosity-driven insight reflecting his ceaseless fascination with the world.
During his three winters in Pasadena, Einstein’s presence was a source of intrigue and inspiration. Students at Caltech were treated to the sight of the disheveled-haired genius pedaling around campus on a bicycle, launching paper airplanes from balconies, and even engaging in a heated debate with the stern Caltech president and Nobel laureate, Robert A. Millikan, on the steps of Throop Hall. Precisely what they debated remains a mystery. (Maybe something about the dates?)
Einstein with Robert A. Millikan, a prominent physicist who served as the first president of Caltech from 1921 to 1945 and won the Nobel Prize in Physics in 1923. (Courtesy of the Caltech Archives.)
During his final winter in California, a near-accident led the couple to move into Caltech’s Athenaeum. His suite, No. 20, was marked with a distinctive mahogany door, a personal touch from his sponsor, Fleming. In 1933, as Nazi power intensified in Germany, Einstein began searching for a safe place to continue his work. Although Caltech made an offer, it was Princeton University‘s proposal that ultimately won him over. Einstein relocated to Princeton that same year, where he played a significant role in the development of the Institute for Advanced Study and remained there until his death in 1955.
Suite No. 20, Einstein’s mahogany door at the Caltech Athenaeum
Today, a large collection of Einstein’s papers are part of the Einstein Papers Project at Caltech. And Einstein’s suite at Caltech’s Athenaeum, still displaying the mahogany door, serves as a physical reminder of his visits.
During his third and final visit to Caltech in 1933, Hitler rose to power as Chancellor of Germany. Realizing that, as a Jew, he could not safely return home, Einstein lingered in Pasadena a little longer before traveling on to Belgium and eventually Princeton, where he received tenure. He never returned to Germany, or to Pasadena. Yet he often spoke fondly of the California sunshine, which he missed, and in its own way, the sunshine seemed to miss him too.
There’s a drive that I’ve done many times where I tend to look around and wonder about the place. It’s while I’m on I-5 headed north, a while after passing Santa Clarita, Magic Mountain (I always strain to see if there are people on the roller coasters), and the CalArts up on the hill (where so many Pixar legends once trained).
Perhaps you’ve done it, too. Maybe you get gas in Castaic, then you pass Pyramid Lake, and you’ve fully left the San Fernando Valley behind. Then the climb begins and the terrain changes dramatically. It’s subtle at first. The road starts to rise, winding past low ridges covered in golden grass and sun-bleached rock. Then the grade steepens. You see warning signs for trucks: “Turn off A/C to avoid overheating.” Semis tuck into the right lanes, their flashers blinking, straining against gravity. You’re ascending into the Tehachapi Mountains. The name comes from the Southern Paiute word “Tihachipia” meaning “hard climb”, which makes a ton of sense when you’re there. These mountains are part of the geologically fascinating Transverse Ranges, which we’ve written about before. Up ahead is Tejon Pass, the official name for the mountain crossing, but it’s more famously known to most drivers as the Grapevine, the steep stretch of I-5 that descends into the Central Valley.
The highway carves through steep canyon walls and hillsides sometimes bright with flowers, sometimes scarred by past wildfires. If it’s summer, the air gets drier and hotter; in winter, it might be raining or even snowing. You’re crossing one of the most weather-vulnerable stretches of highway in the state. The road is wide but unforgiving. Watch for crosswinds, or the occasional patrol car tucked into a turnout. Tejon Pass is more than just a mountainous pathway connecting the San Joaquin Valley to Los Angeles. It’s a geological and historical hotspot that tells a story of native tribes, daring transportation, seismic activity, and human ingenuity.
The weather can change quickly near Tejon Pass (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Rising to an elevation of 4,160 feet, Tejon Pass’s unique topography is a fascinating blend of rugged mountains, deep canyons, and expansive plateaus. At the summit, the land briefly levels out. There’s a moment where the mountains give you a glimpse in both directions. Behind, the tangled ridges of Southern California. Ahead, a vast, hazy bowl: the southern end of the Central Valley. You pass the Fort Tejon Historical Park turnoff, and suddenly, you’re descending.
The road plunges down in a series of long, controlled curves. Runaway truck ramps cut into the hillside like scars. Then, like stepping through a door, you’re out of the mountains. Flatness stretches to the horizon. Orchards, oil derricks, and cattle fields mark your arrival in the valley. The air feels different. Denser, warmer. You’re in Kern County now, approaching the outskirts of Bakersfield, and the Grapevine is behind you. It’s as if you crossed an invisible line, a border between two Californias.
One of the most relevant things about Tejon Pass today is its seismic significance. The region is situated at the intersection of two major fault lines: the San Andreas Fault and the Garlock Fault. This combination has made the area a hotspot for seismic activity and has resulted in a number of substantial earthquakes over the years.
Image of the Garlock Fault created with data from NASA’s Shuttle Radar Topography Mission (SRTM)
The most significant of these events occurred in 1857. Known as the Fort Tejon earthquake, it was an estimated magnitude 7.9 and ruptured more than 200 miles of the San Andreas Fault, shifting the land by up to 30 feet in seconds. Shaking may have lasted several minutes, but with few people living nearby, the damage and death toll were minor. Most seismologists believe this segment is locked, meaning it doesn’t release energy through small quakes but instead builds stress until it breaks in a single, massive event.
Today, that same stretch of fault has been largely quiet for more than 160 years. Studies of ancient quake layers suggest it ruptures on roughly a 140-year cycle, leading many scientists to believe stress is building toward another major event, AKA “The Big One”.
Long before European contact, Tejon Pass was a vital passageway for several Native American tribes, including the Chumash and Tataviam. The area around present-day Gorman, near the pass, was home to the Tataviam village of Kulshra’jek, which functioned as a significant trading crossroads for centuries. These Indigenous communities recognized the strategic importance of the pass, utilizing it for travel, trade, and communication across regions.
With the arrival of European settlers, the pass continued to play a vital role in California’s development. It became one of the state’s oldest continuously used roadside rest stops, a title it still holds today. The pass has borne witness to the evolution of transportation, from horse-drawn carriages to modern highways.
However, not all the tales from Tejon Pass are picturesque. The area has earned the foreboding nickname “Dead Man’s Curve.” This name references a notoriously dangerous curve on the old Ridge Route, infamous for its high number of accidents. The treacherous curve became symbolic of the broader challenges of early automotive travel through the mountains, where both engineering and human limitations were tested.
A section of the 1915 Ridge Route in Lebec, California, known as “deadman’s curve,” was abandoned when the highway was improved over the Tejon Pass. photo by George Garrigues.
The Ridge Route, completed in 1915, was California’s first paved highway directly connecting the Los Angeles Basin with the San Joaquin Valley. Engineered to traverse the challenging terrain of the Sierra Pelona Mountains, it followed a winding path from Castaic to Gorman, culminating at Tejon Pass. This innovative route was a significant milestone in California’s transportation history, facilitating automobile travel between Southern and Central California.
A notable segment of this route is known as “The Grapevine,” located in the northern portion descending into the Central Valley. The name originates from the Spanish term “La Cañada de las Uvas,” meaning “The Canyon of the Grapes,” a reference to the wild grapevines that early Spanish explorers, including Don Pedro Fages in 1772, observed growing abundantly in the area.
Over time, the Ridge Route underwent several significant transformations to accommodate increasing traffic and improve safety. In 1933, it was replaced by a three-lane alternate highway, later designated as U.S. Route 99. This was expanded into a four-lane expressway by 1953 . Eventually, the route evolved into the modern eight-lane beast known as the Interstate 5 Freeway, completed in 1970, which continues to serve as a vital artery for transportation in California. You will encounter lots and lots of trucks.
Driving Tejon Pass and the Grapevine
Today, Tejon Pass continues to serve as a crucial thoroughfare for Californians and visitors alike, with Interstate 5 traversing the landscape. The Tejon Ranch Conservancy plays a central role in protecting and interpreting this remarkable landscape. Established as part of a landmark 2008 conservation agreement, the Conservancy is tasked with stewarding over 240,000 acres of permanently protected land—making it one of the largest private conservation efforts in California history. Its mission goes beyond preservation; the Conservancy offers guided hikes, wildlife tracking programs, and educational outreach that invite the public to engage directly with the land.
Superbloom near Tejon Ranch (Tejon Ranch Conservancy)
Soon, however, you leave Tejon Pass behind and continue north on I-5, dropping into the southern end of the Central Valley. You pass through the outskirts of Buttonwillow and Lost Hills, where the landscape flattens into a broad, arid plain. It’s mile after mile of industrial agriculture, just endless rows of almonds, pistachios, and oil wells under a hazy sky. The scenery turns monotonous, and although it does have a story (mostly about moving water), it’s one we’ll save for later.
Tejon Pass is one of those places most people barrel through without a second thought. It’s just a steep stretch of I-5 between Los Angeles and the Central Valley, a name on a weather report when the Grapevine closes in winter. But if you take a moment to look beyond the guardrails and gas stations, you’ll find a landscape layered with deep history and surprising complexity. Knowing what lies beneath the pavement won’t make the climb any less steep—but it might make the ride a little more meaningful.
In 1962, Swiss physicist and deep-sea diving pioneer Hannes Keller embarked on an ambitious and perilous mission to push the boundaries of human endurance and underwater exploration. California, with its dramatic coastline and history of daring maritime ventures, became the setting for this bold effort to make history in diving. Partnered with British diver and journalist Peter Small, Keller aimed to descend inside a specially designed diving bell named Atlantis to an unprecedented depth of 1,000 feet off the coast of Catalina Island. Their plan involved exiting the pressurized diving bell once it reached the ocean floor, a groundbreaking and dangerous procedure that would allow them to perform tasks outside in the extreme depths. What promised to be a historic achievement, however, took a tragic turn.
Keller’s passion for deep-sea diving had recently garnered international attention, fueled by his record-breaking dives and groundbreaking research into advanced breathing gas mixtures. Working alongside Dr. Albert Bühlmann, a renowned physiologist specializing in respiration, Keller employed cutting-edge technology, including an IBM computer, to meticulously design gas formulas that could counteract the dangers of deep diving. Their innovative work addressed the twin challenges of nitrogen narcosis and decompression sickness, promising to revolutionize underwater exploration.
For Keller, diving was initially an unconventional pursuit. He was engaged in teaching mathematics to engineering students in his native town of Winterthur, close to Zurich, and had aspirations to become a pilot. However, the prohibitive cost of flying on a teacher’s salary led him to explore other avenues. Introduced to the burgeoning sport of scuba diving by a friend in the late 1950s, Keller applied his mathematical and scientific acumen to the field. He soon concluded that the existing techniques in deep-sea diving were outdated and ripe for revolutionary advancement.
“If a man could go, for instance, to 1,000 feet down and do practical work,” Mr. Keller wrote in The Sydney Morning Herald, “then all the continental shelf zone could be explored, a total of more than 16 million square miles.”
Keller prepares for his May 1961 chamber dive at the United States Navy Experimental Diving Unit (NEDU). Photo: US Navy
Keller and Bühlmann worked collaboratively to expand their computerized concoction of breathing gases, ultimately selecting a dive site off near Avalon Bay at Catalina Island in Southern California. This location was chosen due to its dramatic underwater geography, where the ocean floor descends sharply from the coast into the deep ocean.
At the time, it was widely believed that no human being could safely dive to depths beyond three hundred feet. That was because, beginning at a depth of one hundred feet, a diver breathing normal air starts to lose his mind due to nitrogen narcosis.
Partnering with Peter Small, co-founder of the British Sub Aqua Club, Hannes Keller planned their historic descent using a specially designed diving bell named Atlantis. This advanced pressurized chamber, deployed from a surface support vessel, was staffed by a skilled technical crew tasked with monitoring gas levels and maintaining constant communication with the divers through a surface-to-bell phone link. The Atlantis diving bell represented a significant leap in underwater technology, providing a controlled environment that allowed divers to venture into previously unreachable depths. Its design and operational success revolutionized the field of deep-sea exploration, offering invaluable insights into human physiology under extreme pressure and laying the groundwork for future advancements in underwater science and technology.
Keller’s experimental dives piqued the interest of the U.S. Navy, as they saw the potential to revolutionize diving safety and practicality. If proven successful, Keller’s methods could transform existing dive tables and enable safer, more practical deep-sea exploration. Encouraged by the promising outcomes of Keller’s preliminary chamber tests and several less extreme open-sea trials, the Navy allowed him to perform a test dive at their primary experimental facility, adjacent to the Washington dive school. They also became a financial supporter of Keller’s ambitious thousand-foot dive.
To carefully scrutinize the operation, the Navy designated Dr. Robert Workman, one of their foremost decompression specialists, to be present on site. A few days after reaching Catalina in late November, Dr. Workman joined Dr. Bühlmann, the rest of Keller’s team, and various onlookers aboard Eureka, an experimental offshore drilling vessel provided by Shell Oil Co. Shell, like other oil and gas enterprises, had a vested interest in innovative techniques that could enhance the productivity of commercial divers. If the dive was successful, the company would receive Keller’s secret air mixture technology and thereby become an instant frontrunner in offshore oil exploration. Their interest was particularly relevant as offshore drilling initiatives were venturing into deeper waters, both off the California shore and in the Gulf of Mexico.
Resembling a huge can of soup, Atlantis stood seven feet tall and had a diameter slightly greater than four feet. Its structure featured an access hatch at the bottom and was adorned with an array of protruding pipes and valves, adding to its industrial appearance.
British journalist Peter Small (BSAC)
As a journalist, Peter Small intended to pen a first-hand narrative of the groundbreaking dive. On December 1, as part of a final preparatory dive, Small and Keller were lowered inside Atlantis to a depth of three hundred feet, where they spent an hour scuba diving outside the bell. During the decompression process within the bell, both divers experienced relatively mild symptoms of decompression sickness, commonly known as the bends. Keller felt the effects in his belly, while Small was afflicted in his right arm. Decompression sickness is still a relatively poorly understood phenomenon, and it remains unpredictable as to which part of the body it might affect.
Keller’s symptoms abated on their own that night, but Small’s discomfort lingered until he underwent recompression treatment. Despite this warning sign, Keller was determined to continue with the dive as planned, without conducting further incremental tests at increasing depths before the ambitious thousand-foot descent. His decision was likely influenced, at least in part, by the assembled crowd of journalists and other spectators eager to witness the historic dive. The constraints of time, finances, and equipment availability added to the pressure, compelling the team to proceed with the experimental dive as scheduled.
The diving bell Atlantis is lifted out of the water after Keller and the journalist Peter Small descended 1,020 feet to the Pacific Ocean floor in December 1962.
On Monday, December 3, around noon, Atlantis began its descent beneath the surface of the Pacific, enclosing its two divers within. The journey towards the ocean floor took under thirty minutes. Upon reaching the target depth of a thousand feet, a series of dark and chaotic moments ensued. Keller exited the bell to plant a Swiss flag and an American flag on the ocean floor. In the process, his breathing hoses became entangled with the flags, and after clambering back inside Atlantis, he lost consciousness.
The gas mixture had somehow become compromised. Peter Small also blacked out, despite never having left the diving bell. As Atlantis was hastily ascended to within two hundred feet of the surface, several support divers swam down to meet the bell. Tragically, one of these support divers, Christopher Whittaker, a young man of just nineteen, disappeared without a trace.
Pacific Ocean off Catalina Island (Erik Olsen)
Keller came to roughly a half-hour after the incident, and Small regained consciousness, but it took nearly two hours for him to do so. Upon awakening, Small engaged Keller in coherent questions about what had transpired. He reported feeling cold and, although he retained the ability to speak, see, and hear, he could not feel his legs. Despite not experiencing any pain, he was too weak to stand. Leaning against his Swiss counterpart, he drifted off to sleep as their decompression within the bell continued.
Several hours later, as Atlantis was being transported back to shore to Long Beach from the dive site near Catalina, Keller discovered that Small had ceased breathing and had no pulse. Desperate to revive him, Keller administered mouth-to-mouth resuscitation and cardiac massage, but to no avail. Small was cold and pallid. The remaining pressure inside the bell, about two atmospheres, was hastily released in a frantic effort to get Small to a hospital after being trapped inside Atlantis for eight hours. Tragically, upon arrival, he was promptly pronounced dead.
The Atlantis diving bell (Paul Tzimoulis)
The Los Angeles County coroner identified the cause of death as decompression sickness. An examination revealed that Small’s tissues and organs were filled with Nitrogen gas bubbles. However, Keller contended that other factors, such as a potential heart attack and the panic Small displayed upon reaching the thousand-foot mark, contributed to the tragedy.
Regardless of the underlying causes, the catastrophic dive to thirty atmospheres and the loss of two lives led to a rapid waning of interest in Keller’s previously sensational methods. The potential for failure of this magnitude had been a concern to many in the deep diving community and the day’s events set back research in the emerging field of saturation diving. Even before this event, saturation diving had only tepid support from the Navy, but this made some people loss faith in the technique. Of course, it would not be the end of saturation diving, not by a long shot.
Hannes Keller in his later years. (Credit: Keller, Esther, Niederglatt, Switzerland)
Modern deep-water diving owes much to the groundbreaking experiments of Hannes Keller. His historic dive to 1,020 feet (311 meters) off Catalina Island was a remarkable achievement that captivated the world. Far from being a mere stunt, as some critics claimed, Keller’s dive was a meticulously planned scientific endeavor designed to push the boundaries of human exploration of the ocean depths. This Swiss adventurer’s pioneering work laid the foundation for advances in deep-sea diving techniques, leaving an enduring legacy in the field.
Christopher Swann, a diving historian, said the dive “was a milepost in the sense that it was the first time something like that had been done.”
Keller ended up living a rich and long life, dying on December 1, 2022, at at a nursing home in Wallisellen, Switzerland, near his home in Niederglatt. He was 88.
Geological forces are always at work, reshaping the planet, just usually on a timescale too slow for us to notice. But over the long haul, they can completely transform places we think of as fixed and familiar, like Southern California and northern Mexico. I’ve been down to Baja a bunch of times, including a few unforgettable multi-day kayak trips in the Sea of Cortez. Paddling past sheer cliffs and sleeping on empty beaches under the stars, it’s easy to feel like the landscape has been frozen in time. But that sense of permanence? It’s an illusion.
Baja California stretches like a crooked finger pointing toward the tropics, wedged between the restless Pacific and the calm, warm waters of the Gulf of California. This long, skinny slice of land, more than 1,200 miles from Mexicali to Cabo, is full of contrasts: sun-blasted deserts, jagged mountains, hidden oases and mangroves. But it’s not just a finger of land: it’s a fracture. Baja was ripped from mainland Mexico by slow, grinding tectonic forces, the Pacific Plate dragging it north and leaving the Gulf in its wake. And it’s still on the move.
Kayaking the Sea of Cortez out of Loreto, Mexico on the Baja Peninsula (Photo: Erik Olsen)
Every year, Baja creeps a little farther away from the continent, slowly widening the gap. Some scientists think that, millions of years from now, the whole rift could flood, turning parts of northern Mexico into a vast inland sea. It’s the continent, cracking apart right under our feet. it’s just taking its time.
This process is linked to the activity of the San Andreas Fault and other associated fault systems, which collectively form a boundary between the Pacific Plate and the North American Plate. The movement of these tectonic plates is a slow but relentless process, occurring over millions of years. (Slow, and yet as we’ve documented, there’s been quite a bit of movement over that long period of time).
The Pacific Plate is moving northwest relative to the North American Plate, and the San Andreas Fault system primarily accommodates this movement. In essence, the Baja California Peninsula is moving with the Pacific Plate alongside and away from the North American Plate.
The separation is taking place at an average rate of about 2 to 5 centimeters per year. Over millions of years, these movements accumulate, leading to significant shifts in the geography of regions like Baja California. According to some geologists, within the next 20-30 million years, this tectonic movement could eventually break Baja and the westernmost part of California off of North America to create a vast inland sea, if not an island.
The movement of the continental crust in the area is due in part to seafloor spreading at a massive underwater seam called the East Pacific Rise. This mid-ocean ridge stretches from the southeastern Pacific near Antarctica all the way north into the Gulf of California. Its northernmost extension, known as the Gulf of California Rift Zone, reaches close to the mouth of the Colorado River, helping drive the slow but steady separation of the Baja California Peninsula from mainland Mexico.
That geological rift didn’t just shape the land—it created an entirely new sea. The story of Baja California’s tectonic journey isn’t just about earthquakes and shifting plates, it’s also a story of water. The Gulf of California, also known as the Sea of Cortez, is a geologically young sea, having formed around 5.3 million years ago when the Baja Peninsula began drifting northwest. That rifting process continues today, slowly widening the gulf and redrawing the landscape of northwest Mexico.
The azure waters of the Sea of Cortez (Photo: Erik Olsen)
This body of water is a critical habitat for marine life, including several species of whales and dolphins that depend on its warm waters. Jacques Cousteau, the famous French oceanographer, famously referred to the Gulf of California as “the world’s aquarium” due to its vast array of (declining) marine life.
The Sea of Cortez today is under threat from our short time so far on the planet. Unfortunately, overfishing and pollution, including nitrogen-rich runoff from the Colorado River, which (sort of) flows directly into the gulf, imperils wildlife. Nutrient flows can lead to a dramatic decrease in oxygen, depriving plants and animals of the life-giving gas. The potential extinction of the critically endangered vaquita (Phocoena sinus), represents one of the most urgent conservation crises in the region. The vaquita is the world’s most endangered marine cetacean, with estimates suggesting only a few individuals remain. This dire situation is primarily due to bycatch in illegal gillnets used for fishing another endangered species, the totoaba fish, whose swim bladder is highly valued in traditional Chinese medicine.
Habitat destruction is another growing concern, as mangroves, estuaries, and reefs, vital for the breeding and feeding of marine species, are increasingly destroyed to make way for tourism infrastructure and coastal development. Climate change intensifies these problems, with rising sea temperatures and ocean acidification threatening reefs and the broader ecosystem.
Baja California as seen in April 1984, from the bay of a Space Shuttle (Photo: NASA)
The birth of the Sea of Cortez also has an intriguing connection to a body of water hundreds of miles to the north: the Salton Sea. The Salton Sea, California’s largest lake, sits in the Salton Trough, an area geologists consider a “rift zone,” an extension of the same tectonic forces at work in the Gulf of California.
As the North American and Pacific Plates continue their slow-motion dance, the area around the Salton Sea may sink further, eventually linking with the Gulf of California. If this occurs, seawater could flood the basin, creating a new body of water significantly opening the Sea of Cortez. As mentioned above, eventually this could lead to the full separation of the peninsula from the mainland. However, such a dramatic event is likely millions of years in the future, if it happens at all. Interestingly, the Salton Sea acts as a mirror, reflecting the past processes that led to the formation of the Sea of Cortez.
Salton Sea (Wikipedia)
The Sea of Cortez stands at a crossroads, shaped by both human impact and tectonic drift. Baja California is slowly pulling away from mainland Mexico, a process that could one day create a vast inland sea and dramatically reshape the region. While no one alive today will witness the full transformation, its ultimate impacts could be extreme—redrawing coastlines, shifting ecosystems, and isolating parts of southern California and Mexico in ways we can scarcely imagine.
Southern California’s sandy beaches are more than just popular spots for surfing and sunbathing—they’re the product of a dramatic geologic story that’s been unfolding for millions of years. With their sweeping ocean views and turquoise waters, these iconic coastlines attract millions every year. But few people stop to think about how these beaches actually came to be.
To get the full picture, you have to go way back—about 200 million years, to the Mesozoic era. Back then, the land we now know as Southern California was underwater, part of a vast oceanic plate. As the North American continent drifted westward, it collided with and began to override the Pacific plate. This slow-motion crash, called subduction, set the stage for the coast we see today.
This subduction zone generated intense heat and pressure, melting portions of the oceanic crust and upper mantle. The resulting magma rose to the surface, forming a chain of volcanic islands and large underground magma chambers. Over time, these chambers cooled and solidified into granite, forming what’s now known as the Southern California batholith—an enormous mass of igneous rock that underlies much of the region. This tectonic activity also helped uplift and shape many of the mountain ranges we see today, including the Santa Monica and San Gabriel Mountains.
Beach sand, particularly in Southern California, is primarily composed of quartz and feldspar mixed with silvery mica and milky quartz. These minerals originally existed in the granite of the local mountains, miles from the shoreline. Studies have shown that much of the sand on Southern California beaches actually comes from the San Gabriel mountain range.
“Sediment that’s derived from granite-type watersheds is generally comprised of a lot of quartz,” says UCLA geography professor Tony Orme. “It tends to be light in color.”
San Gabriel Mountains
The San Gabriel Mountains are part of the Transverse Ranges, are known for their rugged terrain, diverse ecosystems, and recreational opportunities, stretching approximately 68 miles from Los Angeles County to San Bernardino County.
It may be surprising to learn that the San Gabriel Mountains, towering over Los Angeles, play a critical role in forming the region’s stunning beaches. They are, in fact, the primary source of much of Southern California’s beach sand, particularly around Los Angeles. But how does this granitic mountain material end up miles away on the beach?
The answer lies in the forces of erosion and weathering. The mountains’ granite is gradually worn down over time by rain, wind, and cycles of freezing and thawing. This erosion process, which can take millions of years, results in smaller and smaller particles. Rainfall and streams transport these eroded particles down the mountain slopes and into the regions rivers.
Southern California beach
These rivers, such as the Los Angeles and San Gabriel Rivers, act as conveyor belts, carrying the eroded material – the future sand of our beaches – toward the Pacific Ocean. Renowned geomorphologist Douglas Sherman of the University of Alabama has extensively studied these sediment transport processes, highlighting their importance in coastal formation.
Sand continuously migrates from land to sea. As rivers met the ocean, they deposited their sediment load, forming deltas. Coastal currents then took over, redistributing these sediments along the shoreline, a process known as longshore drift. Waves, powered by the coastal winds, continually pushes this sediment onto the shore, gradually creating the wide, sandy beaches we enjoy today.
This ongoing transfer is accompanied by watershed run-off and the erosion of bluffs and hillsides, which carry sand toward the beach. Grains of sand then embark on a southward journey along the coast, while the smaller sediment particles are swept further offshore and deposited deep on the ocean floor.
Lifeguard tower (Erik Olsen)
While there is still widespread belief among geologists that most of California’s sand originates in the mountains, two relatively recent studies conducted by researchers at the University of California, San Diego have suggested that another key source of erosion might be the grand sea cliffs of the region.
“Much to our surprise,” expressed Scott Ashford, formerly a professor of engineering at UCSD, and now at Oregon State, who employed a mobile laser imaging system to examine coastal formations for one of the studies. “It’s revealing that our comprehension of the beach system isn’t as thorough as we’ve presumed.”
His research analyzed six years’ worth of imaging data from the 50-mile (80-kilometer) coastline stretching from Dana Point to La Jolla. Previously, geologists had conjectured that up to 90% of the beach sand in this sector originated from deposits transported by coastal rivers, but Ashford’s research indicated that the sea cliff erosion accounts for some 67% of Southern California’s beach sand. However, since Ashford’s study was focused on such a small area of the coast, many geologists are wary of embracing his conclusions.
The coastal journey of the sand concludes either when it is blown inland to form dunes or more frequently, when it descends into a submarine canyon, such as Monterey Canyon in Northern California. The deep underwater chasm of a canyon signifies the endpoint of a littoral cell. A littoral cell is a unique coastal region where sand embarks on a journey from land into the ocean, traverses down the coast, and then exits the system. The volume of sand accessible to beaches equals the quantity entering the littoral cell minus the quantity exiting. Changes to this sand budget can result in the contraction or even complete vanishing of beaches.
Hermosa Beach (Erik Olsen)
The formation of Southern California’s beaches is not a completed process but an ongoing one. Waves and currents continue to shape the coastline, sometimes depositing sand to widen the beach, and at other times eroding the shoreline. Los Angeles has paved most of its major rivers, reducing the amount of sand that comes from the mountains onto the beaches. In fact, it is not uncommon for Southern California beaches to be missing close to 50% of their historical sand supply.
California has added sand to its beaches for decades through projects called “nourishment”. These projects are often used to restore eroded beaches and protect against sea level rise. Sand is typically dredged offshore and pumped onto the shore, where trucks spread it around. The goal is to widen the beach so that wave energy breaks sooner and dissipates towards the bluff face.
Rosanna Xia’s book, California Against the Sea: Visions for Our Vanishing Coastline (2023) is an excellent source of information on California beach erosion and the threats posed by the loss of significant portions of the coast. The book explores how human activities like coastal development, urbanization, and dam construction have intensified natural erosion processes. She provides a historical context for these developments and their long-term impacts, while also exploring innovative adaptation strategies and community-led efforts to protect the coastline. Balancing a sense of urgency with cautious optimism, Xia presents a vision for a resilient future where informed policies and sustainable practices can help safeguard California’s coastal treasures for generations to come.
Los Angeles River
Understanding the geological history of Southern California’s beaches not only adds depth to our appreciation of these natural wonders but also highlights the need for careful stewardship. By minimizing our environmental impact, reducing development and mitigating the effects of climate change, we can ensure that these incredible landscapes continue to evolve and endure for generations to come.
Hadrosaur on ancient California landscape. Hadrosaurs like this AI generated one are among the very few dinosaurs whose fossils have ever been found in California.
You’ve surely seen those dramatic museum displays: fearsome T-Rex skulls, triceratops horns, towering brachiosaur skeletons – tangible reminders of a world with giant animals that roamed our planet millions of years ago. Some states are rich in the fossils of ancient dinosaurs. Montana, Wyoming, Utah all have rich fossil records. But not California. Very few dinosaur fossils have ever been found in the Golden State.
But why? We’ve got Hollywood, Silicon Valley, lots of oil, and the Giant Redwoods, but where are our prehistoric dinosaur residents hiding?
To understand this prehistoric puzzle, we have to venture back into the geologic past, and also consider some unique aspects of California’s geographical and geologic evolution.
Dinosaurs were mostly present during the Mesozoic Era, from about 252 million to 66 million years ago. The Mesozoic is divided into three periods: the Triassic, Jurassic, and Cretaceous. The dinosaurs reign likely ended with a massive meteorite impact that caused a mass extinction, wiping out the dinosaurs and up to 80% of life on Earth.
While dinosaur fossils are found around the globe, their distribution is far from even. Fossilization itself is a relatively rare event that depends on several specific conditions. Generally, fossilization requires rapid burial to protect the remains from scavengers and environmental factors, as well as a lack of oxygen to slow down decay. Over time, minerals gradually replace organic material, preserving the structure and creating a fossil, but only a small fraction of organisms ever undergo this process.
Jack Horner, Curator of Paleontology at Museum of the Rockies, provides scale for Tyrannosaurus rex fossils at excavation site near the Fort Peck Reservoir, Fort Peck, Mont., June 1990. (Photo: courtesy Museum of the Rockies
So, when a dinosaur died, its body needed to be quickly covered by sediment, like sand, mud, or volcanic ash. This prevented the remains from being scavenged or decomposed and allowed for the slow process of mineralization, where bones and teeth gradually turn to stone.
Even if these conditions were met, the resulting fossils had to survive millions of years of geologic processes, such as erosion, plate tectonics, and volcanic activity. To find dinosaur fossils today, the layers of rock in which they are embedded must be exposed at the Earth’s surface.
But now here’s where California’s unique geologic history comes into play. Most of the land we see today in California wasn’t even above sea level during the Mesozoic Era, instead it was submerged beneath the Pacific Ocean. Only small, scattered volcanic islands or bits of uplifted crust occasionally broke the surface, shaped by the intense movement of tectonic plates. That means there were no T. rexes or Stegosaurs ambling through Yosemite Valley…which, by the way, hadn’t even formed yet.
California’s active geology works against fossil preservation. The state sits on the boundary of tectonic plates (the Pacific and North American plates), resulting in significant geological activity including earthquakes, volcanic activity, mountain building, and erosion. These processes tend to destroy fossils rather than preserve them.
Head section of Olenellid trilobite in a Latham Shale slab. (Credit: National Park Service)
California, in the form we recognize today, is relatively new land that finally began rising out of the ocean near the end of the dinosaur age, as mountain ranges like the Sierra Nevada started to form and ancient sea basins uplifted. While these earlier conditions weren’t favorable for preserving land-dwelling dinosaur fossils, they did leave behind a rich marine fossil record, including ammonites, marine reptiles, and countless microfossils.
That said, there have been several discoveries of particular animals in California, representing animals much later in the dinosaur story. The majority of the dinosaur fossils found in California are the bones of hadrosaurs, duck-billed dinosaurs that lived during the Late Cretaceous period. These herbivorous dinosaurs thrived in what was once a coastal plain environment, and their remains have been uncovered in parts of California like the Point Loma Formation near San Diego, the Panoche Hills area near Fresno, and in Baja California.
While much of California was underwater during the Late Cretaceous, it was home to mosasaurs, large carnivorous marine reptiles that lived in oceans all over the world. These fearsome predators had long, streamlined bodies with powerful fins and jaws lined with sharp teeth. They hunted fish, ammonites, and possibly even other mosasaurs. Some species grew as big as modern whales and ruled the seas at the very end of the dinosaur age. Mosasaurs shared the world with creatures like Triceratops and Tyrannosaurus, but they vanished along with the dinosaurs during the mass extinction at the close of the Cretaceous. Today, paleontologists recognize mosasaur fossils by distinctive features on their skeletons, including unique muscle attachment scars and specialized bone knobs.
Artists recreation of the hadrosaur Augustynolophus by the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County
As mentioned above, the action of plate tectonics, the slow but powerful movements of sections of the Earth’s crust, has significantly affected California’s fossil record. Over millions of years, California has been built from pieces of the Earth’s crust that traveled here aboard tectonic plates.
Much of the rock we see at the surface today, especially along the coast and in the western mountains, arrived during the Cenozoic Era, after the age of dinosaurs. These younger rocks, while not bearing dinosaur fossils, have yielded rich caches of mammal fossils, including creatures like saber-toothed cats, mammoths, and dire wolves, which roamed California long after the dinosaurs.
In recent years, paleontologists have begun to find more dinosaur fossils in California, albeit still far fewer than in states like Utah, Montana, or Wyoming. These discoveries, often of marine animals or those who lived near the coast, are expanding our understanding the ancient Californian landscape.
Saber-toothed cat (State of California Capitol Museum)
In 2022, a remarkable fossil discovery was made during a construction project at San Pedro High School in Los Angeles. The excavation revealed a massive trove of marine fossils from the Miocene Epoch, dating back around 5 to 23 million years (so, not technically dinosaur fossils). Among the finds were the remains of ancient whales, sharks, fish, and mollusks, offering a rare glimpse into Southern California’s prehistoric past when the region was submerged under a warm, shallow sea. This discovery provided paleontologists with valuable insights into the marine ecosystems that once thrived in the area.
Among the fossils found under San Pedro High School are juvenile megalodon teeth, right, the great white shark’s ancestor; those from mako sharks, center; and from smaller sharks. (Wayne Bischoff / Envicom Corp.)
In addition to the marine fossils, a few terrestrial remains were also uncovered, hinting at a nearby coastline that once supported a variety of land animals. The discovery of such well-preserved fossils captured the attention of scientists and the local community alike, briefly turning the San Pedro High School campus into an unexpected center of scientific excitement. For students and residents, the find offered a cool reminder of the ancient worlds buried just beneath their everyday lives.
While California’s record of dinosaur fossils is relatively sparse, its mammal fossil record is nothing short of astonishing. Sites like the La Brea Tar Pits in Los Angeles preserve an incredible array of Ice Age mammals, from saber-toothed cats and mammoths to giant ground sloths. These fossils provide an unparalleled window into the vibrant ecosystems that thrived long after the age of dinosaurs ended, showcasing California’s rich and varied prehistoric past.
Saber-toothed cat fossil skeleton at the La Brea Tar Pits in Los Angeles (Photo: Erik Olsen)
While it might be tempting to feel a little disappointed that California doesn’t have an abundance of dinosaur fossils, that’s simply the way the landscape evolved. But there’s still plenty to celebrate. California’s unique geologic past has produced a vibrant fossil record of other ancient life — from towering prehistoric sequoias to tiny, long-lost plankton. Every fossil, big or small, offers a glimpse into the rich, complicated, and ever-changing story of this remarkable place we call California.
